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Post by Deleted on Jun 6, 2012 17:58:14 GMT
Chris, that looks AWESOME There's clearly a sh**load of work involved but I bet you feel it was worth it now when you look and listen to it. Well done
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 6, 2012 23:06:45 GMT
Chris, that is fantastic. Maybe a bit OTT but, jesus man, it's yours, it's unique and it's what this is all about. Awesome. Mike
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XTRProf
Fully Modded
Pssst ! Got any spare capacitors ?
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Post by XTRProf on Jun 8, 2012 0:23:28 GMT
Good work, Chris! Btw, what did you use for lettering? Also, what are the golden support from? First sight, your box reminded me of ...............
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2012 12:38:43 GMT
Thanks for the kind comments guys.
Chong,
The lettering in only on the picture, the amp itself is blank. The "golden supports" are snare drum lugs and tension bolts.
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elysion
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contra torrentem
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Post by elysion on Jun 8, 2012 14:40:57 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2012 17:15:55 GMT
Christian,
Yes, I did see your original post. I had already downloaded the trial version but have not had a play yet, just a cursory look.
If it can import symbols from other progs it could be quite usable.
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Will
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Post by Will on Jun 8, 2012 18:39:20 GMT
Chris Brilliant build! I always liked your original SCHA build, and this is very much in the same vein, proper DIY. Are you and Alan related by any chance?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2012 23:11:24 GMT
Hi Chris, a handsome highly individualistic case. I'd be a bit apprehensive if I'd to suss out where all the internal wiring went. Alan
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2012 23:16:58 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2012 15:10:15 GMT
Alan, All the wiring is done in levels to match the tranformers, psu boards and target boards. It all makes sense, to me at least Christian, Here's a quick play with the prog you linked to. Found some features I should have used from the off but didn't go back to edit. Not tried importing symbols etc yet. It's OK but definitely needs MUCH MORE data and flexibility. On what I've seen so far I don't think I'd buy it. Attachments:
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Spirit
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Post by Spirit on Jul 18, 2012 16:14:58 GMT
Awesome build Chris! Did you also do the red fire engine one a while back? I liked that too
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2012 6:31:45 GMT
Hey guys im new here. Here is my SCHA. Completely stock at the moment but won't be for long.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2012 5:52:40 GMT
Vince I assume that it is working O.K. before starting modifications ? If so, I would first recommend removing the 100R 5W and 330R 5W PSU resistors as per the modified drawing.The 100R 5W can be replaced by a 10K .5W resistor, and the 7805 removed.After these changes check that you still have approx + and -15V out, and around +21V (!) at the original 5V terminal block. This will permit using a front panel LED without an additional dropping resistor if you need one. See Reply1. rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=chitchat&action=display&thread=3622 Once the PSU is verified to be working O.K.again , you can then build a JLH.The + and - IN to the JLH MUST be connected to + and - 15V OUT from the PSU, and the right way around ! Check that you're seeing the correct voltages out from the JLH on completion by checking with the fault finding chart. If it checks out O.K. then you can leave it connected and working while you complete the modifications to the HA PCB. Make 100% certain that + and -15V from the JLH is connected to + and - 15V IN of the main PCB when completed. MANY people have come to grief here by inadvertently reversing the PSU wiring when connecting the JLH in line. Alex
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2012 10:58:30 GMT
Hey Alex, Yes everything works and it sounds great with the Audio Technicas A900X. Yesterday i picked up the very last SCHA kit with a PSU as well, at my local Jaycar. I'm thinking that I should keep my completed one and populate the spare boards with your mods and some more quality components like faster diodes, beyschlag resistors and some, where its necessary, with Cerafine audio caps. Cost not a problem, I got a good friend who was/getting back into the Audiophile business and has a couple trade accounts with wholesalers, so should get things quite cheaply . We'll see how it goes. And do I need an LED that can handle more than 21v or place another resistor in series with the current LED I have (I think mine is a 5mm from Jaycar)? Cheers and Thanks in Advance, Vince
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2012 19:42:53 GMT
The voltage at that point is around +21V , but it is through a 10K dropping resistor.When a LED is connected, the voltage at that point will be from 1.8V to 3.2V depending on the type and colour of the LED used. Some high efficiency Blue LEDs will need more like 22K to reduce their brightness. Alex
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2012 1:27:41 GMT
Excellent Alex, thanks for the info. I'm not an electronics engineering and every piece of advice helps me better understand things.
An order for parts should be placed today by my friend for the better components.
Btw could you point me in the direction of a good USB dac? Lately i've been using my Samsung Galaxy Tab via the headphone output, but i feel as if its limiting in SQ.
Cheers, Vince.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2012 11:20:58 GMT
Just an update.
Finished the JLH. Honestly, what a lovely piece of PCB it is. A very big thanks to Greg and Alex for creating it. Its a tight fit around the 4700uf caps but managed to get it all in nice and low. Yes I know some of the resistors look like 1 watt variants, but they're in fact all 1/2 watt. 2 different brands but all are 1% tolerance and also verified on a DMM. Also made sure the transistors HFE were very close (and high) too.
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Post by JamesFeline on Nov 19, 2017 14:06:37 GMT
wow .. fair play, great build sorry for the late post
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