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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 16, 2013 10:08:19 GMT
Basically our image "allowance" is full, If I empty all the existing images then you can start uploading again...... I, too, use photobucket it's a lot more reliable  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2013 10:18:13 GMT
Basically our image "allowance" is full, If I empty all the existing images then you can start uploading again...... I, too, use photobucket it's a lot more reliable Mike Which kind of image stabilisation does your camera use, Optical or Digital ? Alex |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 16, 2013 18:47:03 GMT
Basically our image "allowance" is full, If I empty all the existing images then you can start uploading again...... I, too, use photobucket it's a lot more reliable Mike Which kind of image stabilisation does your camera use, Optical or Digital ? Alex I'm not sure Alex, I just point and shoot. The main camera I use is a pretty bog standard Nikon coolpix P100 and all the "board" shots are taken in Macro mode. I've also got a Panasonic HX-WA2 and a Kodak Playsport ZX5 and will be trying their macro mode to see what type of photos they take/ The Pink Balls lottery is out, I've had a better idea for the competition I'm going to take 4 photos of the competition prize on different cameras (all on the same day, same time, same angle). The cameras will be Panasonic HX-WA2, Nikon Coolpix P100, Iphone 4Gs and Kodak Playsport ZX5. All four photos will be uploaded and the idea is to guess what camera took what photo...... just working out the best way to do this. Just had a look on Google and it says this about the P100's image stabilisation "5-way VR Image Stabilization System" 5-way VR Image Stabilization System •Optical VR Image Stabilization by sensor shift minimizes the effect of camera shake •New Hybrid VR Image Stabilization by combining sensor shift and electronic stabilization minimizes the effect of camera shake •Motion Detection automatically detects moving subjects and adjusts shutter speed and ISO setting to compensate for camera shake and subject movement •High ISO up to 3200 at full resolution capability helps give you better results when shooting in low light or capturing fast-moving subjects. •Nikon’s original Best Shot Selector (BSS) automatically takes up to 10 shots while the shutter is pressed and saves the sharpest image Mike. Sorry for going off topic, maybe we should discuss this in the camera section |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2013 19:53:42 GMT
Thanks Mike. My cheap Canon has OIS , but many of my equipment photos still end up a little blurry.
Yours are spot on.
Regards
Alex
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 16, 2013 20:49:20 GMT
Thanks Mike. My cheap Canon has OIS , but many of my equipment photos still end up a little blurry. Yours are spot on. Regards Alex Does it have a Macro function Alex? If so, that's the puppy you want to be using for close up shots..... what's the model number? Mike. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2013 20:59:13 GMT
Hi Mike
It's only a cheapie. It's a Canon Power Shot A480.
Regards
Alex
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 16, 2013 21:31:58 GMT
Hi Mike It's only a cheapie. It's a Canon Power Shot A480. Regards Alex That has macro mode Alex..... try taking your "board" photos in macro mode....... they will be a lot sharper. Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 16, 2013 21:41:45 GMT
Snipped this out of an in-depth review..... "If you like taking plenty of close-up macro shots, the A480 might not be the best choice for you. You can get reasonably close -- down to 30mm away from a subject -- but the autofocus system isn't terribly accurate at that distance, even though subjects might look in focus on the screen." Full blurb here: reviews.cnet.co.uk/compact-digital-cameras/canon-powershot-a480-review-49302825/ |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2013 21:42:19 GMT
Try natural light too, it makes a world of difference. For the last few years I've been using a simple point and shoot, Panny TZ3. It has a reasonable lens for a compact and is decent for snaps but not much more.
I've just ordered up a snazzier panny, "one of these not quite an SLR but close" jobbies, it's an old model now but sports slightly preferable features to its replacement, not to mention half the price. I used to be very into photography as a single man and had a serious Minolta SLR with all trappings.
I'm hoping to take some decent shots very soon!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2013 21:44:21 GMT
Oh, another thing. For close ups using macro on a compact, select highest resolution, back off a bit and then crop the shot down afterwards. I always get better results that way with mine |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 16, 2013 21:53:44 GMT
Oh, another thing. For close ups using macro on a compact, select highest resolution, back off a bit and then crop the shot down afterwards. I always get better results that way with mine erm...... yes  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2013 21:55:24 GMT
My main problem is either not enough light, in which case the flash washes out detail in a small area, or too much light when taken outside. I do use the highest resolution and crop in Photoshop. Perhaps it's me, as I used to get far better photos than recently.  Regards Alex |
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Post by smokeycigar on Oct 17, 2013 3:49:21 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2013 11:28:54 GMT
smokeycigar
If R8 is dissipating any real power it should be lifted a few mm above the PCB.
Alex
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Post by smokeycigar on Oct 17, 2013 11:46:07 GMT
It has been. It's floating above the PCB by a few mm.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2013 21:02:27 GMT
It has been. It's floating above the PCB by a few mm. It needs much greater spacing above the PCB for cooling purposes if it is dissipating any real amount of power. Greg Erskine took some temperature measurements recently of a simple Silicon Chip dual regulated PSU PCB , and the artificial load on the -VE rail of a 330 ohm PW5, had raised the temperature of the nearby electrolytic way above what either of us had expected. In a design exercise, he further moved the PW5 closer to the edge of the PCB, as well as providing ventilation holes in the PCB below it. It is unknown at present how effective that will be in reducing the temperature of the nearby electro. Greg measured the temperature of the case of the +VE 2,200uF filter capacitor at 50c, whereas the -VE 2,200uF filter capacitor was 40c. 10c less temperature with an 85c rated electro should mean a longer service life. The interesting thing is that the 330 ohm PW5 resistor was only dissipating a little over 1W.  These measurements were made with an ambient temperature of 18c. Alex |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 17, 2013 21:12:28 GMT
smokeycigar If R8 is dissipating any real power it should be lifted a few mm above the PCB. Alex That is fine where it is Alex, that particular resistor dissipates heat quite well but, yes..... 10mm above the board would have been better..... it's the pads on the underside of the board that suffer if the resistors are too close, they just lift (eventually) and part company from the thin traces. I like to "hoist" any hot parts up a good 10mm from the board, not only to protect the tracks but also to prevent board scorching / total burn out / burnt part limitation / board protection should any of these parts be involved in a major "chain reaction" parts failure. When a V3 goes into fry up mode it always does it the same way and "all" of that burning carnage could have been avoided by the simple raising of a few legs. The amp mods are fantastic, really well done  You're a confident and proficient guy so your next mod involves a bit of "de" soldering get rid of the two x 10uF non polar input coupling caps, they are not necessary..... simply bridge over the pads and you're good to go.... (an offcut from a capacitor leg will do, it doesn't have to be a solid gold link ) Superb work, Maybe all you need now are a pair of GENUINE new old stock valves from Scotland I am NOT happy with your power supply. Mundorf Mcap Supreme 425VAC is NOT a class X2 capacitor and is NOT safe for "across the line" duty....... I advise you to remove this IMMEDIATELY and fit a dedicated class X2 capacitor in its place (they are cheap and do the correct job.) If you want to do a proper job "el Pinkie" then get a couple of class Y2 capacitors too...... run one of them from live to earth and the other from neutral to earth........ so, that's a class X2 between L/N and class Y2 between LE and NE (live to ground. neutral to ground)....... A 275AC varistor between L/N is the icing on the cake but I am not going to divulge the value of the varistor Nice work. does it sound any better? All the best. Mike. |
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Post by smokeycigar on Oct 18, 2013 7:25:05 GMT
Hi Mike,
I have changed the regular tubes to 6H23-EB. What other tubes do you recommend?
Regarding the Mundorf cap, I have been reading debates over many years regarding using non-X2 rated caps (auricaps, mundorfs, etc.)
Most high end components and power filters have non X2 caps "across the line"
I've been running some units with this setup for years without issues. I understand that technically it's incorrect.
I'm curious, that if it's so dangerous, why are they used by many designers/ modders?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2013 8:04:05 GMT
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Post by smokeycigar on Oct 18, 2013 8:07:54 GMT
I was under the impression the Mundorf Supreme were self healing. It's also located after the fuse.
What would be some high quality X2 capacitors I can substitute?
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Post by smokeycigar on Oct 18, 2013 9:02:51 GMT
Nice work. does it sound any better? Forgot to add, it sounds exponentially better. Wider sound stage Depth of the sound stage has gotten deeper Higher detail and clarity smoother sound Tighter and lower bass. Instruments sound more realistic Initially, I wasn't captivated by the original unit. After teh mods, when I start listening, I just can't stop. Amp has become so engaging. It will get better after enough burn-in  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2013 9:22:29 GMT
I was under the impression the Mundorf Supreme were self healing. It's also located after the fuse. What would be some high quality X2 capacitors I can substitute? Mike will be better able to advise about this area of this particular amplifier. I just wanted to reinforce the dangers associated with using the wrong type of capacitor in this area., Alex |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 18, 2013 19:43:39 GMT
I've been running some units with this setup for years without issues. I understand that technically it's incorrect. I'm curious, that if it's so dangerous, why are they used by many designers/ modders? All very well until you receive a massive voltage surge. You may never receive such a thing but, if you do, you're a lot better with a class X2 cap across the line. I also add a 275AC varistor across the line (after the fuse)....... read all about them here: www.frankshospitalworkshop.com/electronics/training_course_varistor.html Pretty much belt and braces stuff No such thing as a "high end" class X2 capacitor, they all have to conform to the same standards..... I, personally, use EVOX / Rifa types but a "suntan" would do the exact same job and cost a lot less. I've drawn a quick diagram to show how a Varistor (MOV) should be fitted:  I do the same with the Class X2 cap. If a fuse is fitted, always fit it "after" the fuse..... any carnage (that could possibly occur) will be prevented. I've got shitloads of these varistors and am happy to send you one FOC..... PM me your details. All the best, Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 18, 2013 19:49:07 GMT
I've had a look at your PSU and there doesn't appear to be an "internal" fuse in there? Maybe my eyes are deceiving me but, from the photos, there appears to be no internal fuse fitted..... I would strongly recommend drilling a hole and fitting one Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 18, 2013 19:57:16 GMT
A 20mm (T) "slow blow" 250mA type should be about right (if you're on 230V voltage)..... I can send one of those along with your varistor and a dedicated chassis mounted fuse holder (with drilling dimensions) but that will be £5 with postage. Best to go belt and braces Mike. |
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You're a confident and proficient guy so your next mod involves a bit of "de" soldering 
