darynalexander
100+
will probably give you some sort of disease.
Posts: 179
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Post by darynalexander on Dec 29, 2006 0:22:26 GMT
Meat, huh? I think it's obvious to the folks here and we support your decision. I read your corda thread in the corda thread, and dangit forgot to get helping hands. methinks I'll just use good ol fashion lyings-around for this one. edit: also found those heatsinks at radioshack, too. the old one i went to was crap, but this one was a corporate run store and not a franchise so they had everything.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Dec 29, 2006 23:21:11 GMT
One I just did, sorry about the picture quality. Glued into position first Then soldered
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darynalexander
100+
will probably give you some sort of disease.
Posts: 179
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Post by darynalexander on Dec 30, 2006 3:37:58 GMT
Well, that was...enlightening. It's easy enough to solder. That much is easy. I can't keep the tip clean (every time I wipe it off on the sponge, it just burns the sponge and gets crap on it). Desoldering is worse. I barely touch it to the pad and the pad sucks right off when I try the pump. Even if that doesn't work, braid doesn't either. There's always a thin layer of solder I can't get off the pad. I'm definitely discouraged about this idea.
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darynalexander
100+
will probably give you some sort of disease.
Posts: 179
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Post by darynalexander on Dec 30, 2006 5:14:33 GMT
I've been trying some more and I can desolder it without getting the pad up (I do this by barely touching the solder glob, then hitting the pump. This gets most of it.) I guess the only problem I have is that thin layer of solder on the pad. I am using 63/37. Would 60/40 be better? I'm getting antsy now and my damn Heed hasn't even come in yet.
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rickcr42
Fully Modded
Rest in peace my good friend.
Posts: 4,514
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Post by rickcr42 on Dec 30, 2006 19:07:35 GMT
are you saying you are attempting a totally "solder free" pad ? If yes then give that thought up or you will drive yourself whacky.No amount of sucking or wicking will get you to a shiny copper pad which is not important anyways since the new solder will re-flow the joint.You just want the majority of solder gone not all before proceeding to the part replacement stage.
BTW-is it just me is is the copper getting thinner and thinner every six months ? There was a time when "heavy copper pcb layer" was the norm not an added feature to sell you something at way more cost than is neccessary.
Almost as if these jokers are going out of their way to make modding electronics as difficult as they can,a model they likely got looking to the auto industry that did anything and everything they could to eliminate the backyard mechanic making their factory trained "plug it into the computer and look at the pretty pictures" non-mechanic idiots the only option for repairs.
you add the high heat requirements of the RoHs fiasco to thin copper layers and heat sensitive teeny tiny delicate parts and it spells "don't even think about it jerkweed !" to the aftermarket modder who would like to at the minimum improve the product beyong the cost cutting factory sock units
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darynalexander
100+
will probably give you some sort of disease.
Posts: 179
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Post by darynalexander on Dec 31, 2006 1:38:24 GMT
Two big thank you's...to Mike, for the pictures of the bypassing. Having plenty of poster tape (you might try that in the future. It's thick and holds) and glue, that should be no problem. This thing is going to be fun to mod instead of scary. Second to Rick, for explaining the solder on the pad. Now I feel a lot better about desoldering. The board I got from radio shack is a cheapie so the pads come off very easily. Now I'm fast enough to where they stay put. It's a matter of removing the iron EXACTLY when the solder heats up. The only downside is that my iron is a bit broad for the itty bitties. Not too worried, though. I'm very precise. My solder joints look decent, being just a little bloated at the worst. I got my Silmic II's here. 100uf, 35v right? They are a lot smaller than they seemed in the picture. It's an ugly brown number but I hear the sound is top notch. The Panasonics were still huge, though (those dimensions were the same as the dublier, though, so I'm not worried I got the wrong size). Adding to the sweetness are some opamps to try out like the ad823 mike mentioned. The others I will research a bit. That dip8 socket is going to be fun to put in with it being so small. If the pads do come off? With those 12w riedon's coming and the film caps, all I need now is the friggin amp!
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darynalexander
100+
will probably give you some sort of disease.
Posts: 179
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Post by darynalexander on Dec 31, 2006 6:53:39 GMT
Now it's just keeping the tip clean. Tomorrow I'll be cleaning it with isapropanol and that should do the trick. Should I be okay as long as I keep it tinned?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Dec 31, 2006 12:34:03 GMT
Use 60/40 which contains flux. Get a small tin of tip cleaner, you just dip the bit into it (when it's hot) and bob's your uncle. Keep your sponge damp and wipe the hot bit over it regularly. Pads should not lift, your iron must be too hot, either reduce the temperature or reduce the time spent on the joint. You don't have to remove "all" the solder, as long as you can clear the solder to expose the hole and can get the new component through the hole that's good enough. The pads on the HEED are pretty robust, I don't know what you're practising on but be assured the pads on the HEED canAmp will take a bit of abuse.
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darynalexander
100+
will probably give you some sort of disease.
Posts: 179
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Post by darynalexander on Jan 2, 2007 3:26:50 GMT
60/40 is MUCH better because 63/37 hardens before you can wipe it off the tip! You have to be fast about it and if you wipe it completely around the sponge there's a good chance it'll lose the heat.
About polypropylene, is this one a weiner (www.rapidonline.com) 10-2524 or is this one a better bet? 10-1450 I feel like I'm cooking or something and being picky about the brand of salt.
Cheers,
Daryn
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 2, 2007 13:16:58 GMT
They're both good caps Daryn but you'll find the yellow ones are quite long and will be clumsy to fit. The red Wima's are fine caps I've used them many times
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Post by daggerlee on Jan 3, 2007 2:34:53 GMT
Hey Mike, Thanks for forging the way on modding the Heed I've got a question - I'm modding a Heed for someone else now, following your basic power supply caps/diodes replacement. I've already done it on my own. Now I am trying to remove the volume pot on this guy's, and it just will not come off, even after I've unscrewed the tiny screw inside. My own volume pot comes off no problem so I don't know what the problem is. I've asked around and some have said since it's an ALPS it needs to be forced off - well I'm not read to go that far yet! Was just wondering if you had encountered this before and what you would recommend doing...I was thinking of squirting some lube in there and seeing if that helps..
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Post by daggerlee on Jan 3, 2007 2:36:26 GMT
Also, on my own amp I stripped some pads today when swapping caps (for the second time). I managed to get a blob of solder at the joint and it's working fine right now but I was wondering f this was something to be concerned about or not for the lifetime of this amp...
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 4, 2007 23:29:29 GMT
Hey Mike, Thanks for forging the way on modding the Heed I've got a question - I'm modding a Heed for someone else now, following your basic power supply caps/diodes replacement. I've already done it on my own. Now I am trying to remove the volume pot on this guy's, and it just will not come off, even after I've unscrewed the tiny screw inside. My own volume pot comes off no problem so I don't know what the problem is. I've asked around and some have said since it's an ALPS it needs to be forced off - well I'm not read to go that far yet! Was just wondering if you had encountered this before and what you would recommend doing...I was thinking of squirting some lube in there and seeing if that helps.. OK, you've got the knob off yes? Next thing to do is to unscrew the nut that secures the pot to the front panel. That's it, just lift the board upwards and pull it out toward the back of the amp. There's no glue involved here so don't worry, you won't damage anything.... a good "up the way" with the PCB and then a "pull" is all that's required. No way is the pot welded to the front panel so don't be frightened to exert a bit of force, it'll budge.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 4, 2007 23:48:28 GMT
Also, on my own amp I stripped some pads today when swapping caps (for the second time). I managed to get a blob of solder at the joint and it's working fine right now but I was wondering f this was something to be concerned about or not for the lifetime of this amp... Not ideal (cosmetically) lifting a pad but certainly not anything to worry about, in fact sometimes I don't bother soldering the component leg onto the pad and will take the leg over to the next component and solder on direct. Pads are pads, not law, if you lift one no worries at all. The best thing to do is to scrape back the green coating off the track that follows on from the pad. Get a craft knife and gently scrape away until the copper track is exposed. You've just created a new pad Flood some solder (very little) onto the exposed track to tin it. Now all you have to do is to bend the component leg over flush with the track and solder it onto the track. IMO, sometimes, lifted pads are a good thing because you actually take the time (have to) to really concentrate on that one joint to make sure it's bullet proof. So don't worry about a lifted pad here and there, if they lift you're probably better off without them and "in the long run" point to point is, by far, the most reliable way if done properly.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 4, 2007 23:59:37 GMT
Staying on this subject (the HEED) I've managed to secure some extremely cool running second world war (circa 1943) military grade 100ohm 10 watt resistors (non inductive) I'll post more on this as / when I've fitted them... they may turn out to be dogs, who knows, I doubt it though Genuine WW2 military spec.... 64 years old NOS and built like the titanic
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Post by daggerlee on Jan 6, 2007 0:16:53 GMT
Thanks for the help Mike much appreciated Also, I measured the DC offset of both my modded heed and another one, and they were both around 30mV. A bit high... Have some DIP8 sockets and opamps coming in. Plan on just snipping the legs of that NE5532, it'll be much easier to take out that way, and as NE5532s are just pennies (comparatively) it'll be easy to replace (in fact have a new one coming in )
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 6, 2007 0:54:09 GMT
Thanks for the help Mike much appreciated Also, I measured the DC offset of both my modded heed and another one, and they were both around 30mV. A bit high... Have some DIP8 sockets and opamps coming in. Plan on just snipping the legs of that NE5532, it'll be much easier to take out that way, and as NE5532s are just pennies (comparatively) it'll be easy to replace (in fact have a new one coming in ) 30mV is not good but it's not bad either. Anything under 50mV is "acceptable" with 0.00mV being optimal. Have you measured the offset from cold "and" once the amp has warmed up? It'd be interesting to see if there's any great drift from cold to warm. Measure the offset immediately after switching the amp on and then measure it again 30 minutes later. Is it -XYZmV on one channel or +XYZmV on the other or what? I measured about +11mV LC and -1mV RC on mine with the NE5532 on board, when I switched over to the AD-823 (which I'm still running) it dropped to -0.5mV LC and +3mV RC. As to the NE5532, if you don't want to save it, clip the legs off flush with the board. heat each pad up until the solder starts to flow (no more than a second or two) and suck away with a desolder pump...... no problems. I never destroy a working part for convenience and always make sure I get the part out intact but, if you're relatively new to desoldering then probably best to tackle the desoldering of the NE5532 a pad at a time.
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rickcr42
Fully Modded
Rest in peace my good friend.
Posts: 4,514
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Post by rickcr42 on Jan 6, 2007 2:03:34 GMT
bipolar input Op Amp,high input current
JFET input,low input current
If you match the input bias at both the "+" and the "-" inputs to the opamp and decouple the feedback loop it will go down once the amp stabilises but could still be high during the initial warm up warmup period causng a "pop" sound many times.The simple solition ?
Output mute (switch or delay relay) and/or a bias path to ground on the output
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Post by daggerlee on Jan 6, 2007 19:57:56 GMT
I've measured it at start up and after an hour, it stays around -30 to -35 mV. I have some AD823s coming in, I'll drop em in after I get the socket in there..
as for the NE5532, I was thinking I could just clip each leg from the top, then remove the body of the opamp. THen it'd be a simple matter of removing each leg individually, wouldn't it?
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darynalexander
100+
will probably give you some sort of disease.
Posts: 179
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Post by darynalexander on Jan 7, 2007 21:19:28 GMT
Delayed again. Dangit. Sometime, I will get this Canamp. And hopefully a job so I don't have to sell the friggin thing.
Went with Riedons over the Brown Devils. It looked better. Initially, I was going to wait a month and mod it. Now, I've picked out the music hot spots to best pick up differences and I'll have at it a few hours after it touches down in my system.
edit: and ooh panasonic resistors to match.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 7, 2007 21:43:58 GMT
as for the NE5532, I was thinking I could just clip each leg from the top, then remove the body of the opamp. THen it'd be a simple matter of removing each leg individually, wouldn't it? That's a way of doing it yes. Whatever you're most comfortable with. I'm used to removing opamps and my technique with an 8 pin is to insert a lever (my fingers if there's room) on the opamp whilst swiping 4 of the pads with a really hot iron (lifting at the same time) and then do the same for the other four pads. Takes about 3 seconds to remove the opamp that way but you have to have the right (hot) bit, the technique and the confidence. The leg by leg way you're proposing will be fine, you can do it two ways: 1: snip the legs off at the body of the opamp. Grab excess leg with pliers (or tweezers) and pull out whilst applying heat to the pad.... mop up excess solder with desolder braid. 2: snip off legs flush with the PCB, turn the board over, apply heat to pad 1 and as soon as the solder flows suck up with a desolder pump, this will also suck the leg up as well as the solder leaving a nice clean hole.... repeat for all pads. Just remember to have that desolder pump nozzle right at the pad and your finger on the trigger before you apply heat... have it on site ready to suck the split second that solder melts.... don't melt the solder then come in 3 seconds later with the desolder pump
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 7, 2007 21:48:19 GMT
Delayed again. Dangit. Sometime, I will get this Canamp. And hopefully a job so I don't have to sell the friggin thing. How long have you been waiting for yours Daryn? To match what? Your hair, your hat, your interior decor?
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darynalexander
100+
will probably give you some sort of disease.
Posts: 179
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Post by darynalexander on Jan 8, 2007 6:24:57 GMT
Film resistors and polyrops, yeah! Keep it in the brand name!
I've been waiting long enough to bitch, let me tell ya. You would think Heed would want to take advantage of the demand instead of taking forever to get them out
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Post by dc on Jan 15, 2007 18:14:15 GMT
...First in were a pair of el cheapo Suntan 105C 35V 10,000uF. I also swapped out the 2 x 100uF stock Jamicons for a couple of 35V 100uF ELNA Cerafines. HUGE improvement to the sound, the extra capacitance pays off BIG time, and then some... pardon my newbness, but i'm keen on the arrival of my canamp and getting all prepped to mod it. ive been doing lots of reading these last few days PinkFloyd do you suggest using nice caps like Nichicon/Rubycon in these positions, would their quality affect the sound or is it purely a power thing that helps in this case (extra power reserves?). the reason i ask is this will be my first major mod job and so i don't have stuff lying around to use i'll be buying everything and there is an rs components not too far from me, where i can get dubilier/panasonic/nichicon/rubycon stuff, i'm not sure whether going up the price ladder will bring improvements or whether i can stick to the cheaper stuff at the moment the price difference isnt a huge concern so long as there's a reason for it thanks in advance!
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 15, 2007 20:08:54 GMT
Hi DC, It's the extra capacitance we're concerned with here and not the brand of the capacitor so much. Anything 105C rated of reasonable quality will do the job nicely
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