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Post by rod on Jan 11, 2005 22:18:50 GMT
As I slowly work my way through the complete kit (minus the 12v lamps that I am awaiting from Dr White...), I don't recall seeing any instructions on testing. Fine for the experienced, but can any of you chaps tell me what I should check out prior to power hook-up?
Incidentally, I am enjoying this somewhat. I fear a new, costly, hobby coming on. ;D
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Alick
<100
The Fife Panther strikes again!
Posts: 41
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Post by Alick on Jan 12, 2005 8:18:54 GMT
I'm sure other will add their own advice but:
1. Check and double check polarity of diodes, ICs, transistors and polar electrolytics.
2. Visually check all solder joints for poor joints, short circuits and stray blobs of solder/wire snippings and other debris.
3. Check that the volume pot is wired the right way round.
4. Disconnect the power header from the board then apply power. Check with a DMM that the supply lines are the right way round.
5. Power down and reconnect the supply header. (I'm assuming here that you've fitted dummy load resistors to the headphone socket. If not, you'll need to plug in your headphones). Turn the volume control to zero. Power up and check that everything's ok and that nothing's overheating/smoking.
6. Switch off, plug in source and headphones, switch on then gently increase the volume and marvel at the sweet music. In the unlikely event that you hear anything other than the expected music, switch off and go to step 1.
NOTE: An alternative strategy at step 6. is to switch on with the volme control set at 12 o'clock (just in case the pot is wired A for T) as you don't want to accidentally switch on at full volume. An even better strategy is to test using a cheap sacrificial pair of headphones if you have them. Anything will do.
Good luck and I hope this helps. Have confidence. The kit is well thought out and mine worked perfectly first time.
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Post by rod on Jan 12, 2005 17:44:12 GMT
Hi Alick Thanks for the advice. Still to drill the case, and waiting on the 12v lamps, but looking forward to it!
Item 5 - Dummy load resistors. What do I need, how do I connect them up? I do have a standby pair of old headphones which are expendable, but the dummies sound like a good idea.
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Alick
<100
The Fife Panther strikes again!
Posts: 41
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Post by Alick on Jan 12, 2005 18:52:25 GMT
Rod - If you look at the headphone socket on Mike's Hi-Res WNA photo www.antiques-uk-great-britain.co.uk/jonathan/Image002.jpg, the dummy resistors can be seen mounted on the switched side of the jack socket just below the Nitai output capacitors. Value isn't critical but something around 300R is appropriate. The resistors provide a load when no headphones are plugged in (this helps keep the oscillation god happy) but are switched out when a jack socket is plugged in.
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Post by rod on Jan 12, 2005 21:17:08 GMT
Ahh! That's what you meant! I have these in place.
Case drilled off. Just have to wait on the 12v lamps, and I'll be up and running.
Thanks again.
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Alick
<100
The Fife Panther strikes again!
Posts: 41
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Post by Alick on Jan 12, 2005 21:26:36 GMT
Glad to help. Let us know how you get on.
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Post by rod on Jan 14, 2005 7:16:12 GMT
While I am here...
Does it make a difference which channel is used for left or right. I can find no reference to this anywhere (but may have missed something). I was planning on making the LH side of the board (when viewed from above - volume control at the top) the LH - #1 channel. Is this correct?
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Post by rod on Jan 14, 2005 17:40:39 GMT
While I am here... Does it make a difference which channel is used for left or right. I can find no reference to this anywhere (but may have missed something). I was planning on making the LH side of the board (when viewed from above - volume control at the top) the LH - #1 channel. Is this correct? YOU'RE ALL TOO LATE TO REPLY...
...AAAARGH! IT'S ALIVE!!!
IT'S GOT ME...and Clutch are blasting out of the cans Thanks must go to David for the amp / kit. Also to Alick for valuable advice... not forgetting Mike who started me off on this with his Head-Fi thread. To you all Wait till it gets warmed up... ;D
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Alick
<100
The Fife Panther strikes again!
Posts: 41
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Post by Alick on Jan 14, 2005 18:05:22 GMT
Excellent, well done! I'm sure you'll enjoy it. As you'll already have discovered, it doesn't really matter which channel you use for left or right so long as the respective inputs and outputs are aligned (ie. left in and left out on same channel).
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Post by rod on Jan 14, 2005 18:22:28 GMT
Cheers Alick, I kinda guessed that, but was wavering.
It's not the best. I could have made a better job of the wiring, but was running out of the screened stuff. In general I could have made it a bit tidier, took my time and stuff, but impatience was getting the better of me. After all, I can now get another case, more wire, etc.
I thoroughly enjoyed this build, even though a bit of frustration at my lack of knowledge was evident. I can see more DIY stuff happening soon. Hey, Mike even sent me some bits for the crossfeed, and I got the tiny Hammond case and phono plugs for it. Cheers Mike, that's next.
I will keep the wna running to break it in. Already, on non-audiophile recordings (Clutch - S/T - Stoner stuff, and Small Faces - The BBC Sessions) I can hear significant improvements over my Yamaha tape deck, which was my previous outlet for my cans.
I have a sh*t-eating grin plastered across my face just now, that should explain how I am feeling right now.
Cheers all ;D
PS. If you anyone reading this hasn't built their own, just do it! This was my first time wielding a soldering iron (although I practised first!) and even I got it going first time. There's some great folks willing to help out here, and on Head-Fi.
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Alick
<100
The Fife Panther strikes again!
Posts: 41
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Post by Alick on Jan 14, 2005 19:08:23 GMT
Don't be hard on yourself. You built the thing (most wouldn't try), it works (which is more important than how it looks), nobody but you sees the inside, it's probably better than you think and as you say, you can always rewire it later.
There's room inside the WNA case for the crossfeed if you want to do it that way. That's what I'm going to do.
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Post by rod on Jan 14, 2005 19:40:50 GMT
Heh-heh! Mine is inside the larger Hammond, there's room for a swimming pool!
If I was going to put the crossfeed inside, I would prefer a switch for it.
Listening to Tommy Smith play haunting melodies in the Hamilton Mausoleum at the moment. Superb!
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Alick
<100
The Fife Panther strikes again!
Posts: 41
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Post by Alick on Jan 14, 2005 21:00:20 GMT
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Post by rod on Jan 14, 2005 22:42:33 GMT
Alick,
4-pole. What are the selections? (newbie, remember)
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Alick
<100
The Fife Panther strikes again!
Posts: 41
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Post by Alick on Jan 15, 2005 13:02:32 GMT
Rod - you neeed the 4-pole SM Toggle FH08J. IIRC, you connect it to switch the input and output of each channel of the crossover in or out of the signal path. The switch has two positions; 'crossover in' or 'crossover out' (bypassed). I'm sure Mike did a switch wiring diagram somehwere. I'll try to find it.
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Post by rod on Jan 15, 2005 15:23:23 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 23, 2005 19:20:54 GMT
Hi Rod, Ignore the "On Off on" bit you just need a 4 pole switch and here is the diagram:
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Post by rod on Jan 23, 2005 21:56:46 GMT
Ta, I take it that I would use the top four contacts for the second crossfeed circuit?
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Post by rod on Jan 23, 2005 22:44:14 GMT
To you all Wait till it gets warmed up... Ha-ha! I've just noticed that you've changed the smileys Mike. Kinda changed the previous "Respekt" to a more "get-it-right-up-you". ;D
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 23, 2005 23:43:14 GMT
I haven't a clue what I'm doing Rod which is why I'm in the process of making everyone a moderator Feel free to organise the smilies or whatever you like...... it's a free for all ;D Pinkie.
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Post by rod on Jan 24, 2005 7:12:32 GMT
Crikey! I'm a recipe for disaster! I couldn't organise my sock drawer. PS. What about the 2nd crossfeed circuit / switch question a couple of posts above?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 24, 2005 19:47:57 GMT
Ta, I take it that I would use the top four contacts for the second crossfeed circuit? Correct Rod.
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Post by rod on Jan 26, 2005 20:45:45 GMT
Mike Regarding running the amp in, I think you mentioned 400hrs. Is it a kind of gradual effect, or will it become noticeable? I was going to wait till it has been running for a good while, and then compare it to my old source to see how good it is.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 30, 2005 15:44:21 GMT
Mike Regarding running the amp in, I think you mentioned 400hrs. Is it a kind of gradual effect, or will it become noticeable? I was going to wait till it has been running for a good while, and then compare it to my old source to see how good it is. Hi Rod, There's no hard and fast set rules when it comes to burn in but many people report the sound as "opening out and becomming fuller" after say 200 - 400 hours..... I had a brief listen to the MKll earlier (it's had a signal going through it for around a week) and it certainly does sound a lot airier with a wider soundstage now it's had a few hours burn in. Let us know how your WNA compares with your original source Rod. Mike.
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