marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on Jun 9, 2007 0:54:01 GMT
I have found some 100nf with 15mm spacing to match the 220nf rifa 15mm spaced ones from jaycar. Regarding the 1uf capacitors-( as there are no pana Fc or FM's in this value) Can I change it for a Non polar one or does it depend what part of the amp circuitary that its in ? If NP's are 100% ok anywhere to substitute anywhere a polorised cap is then its the capXon 1uf - if not RS have a panasonic NHG 105c 1uf 50v Part no 365-4199 that I could use ?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2007 1:59:05 GMT
marc Looks like Jaycar no longer stocks those 1uF caps. Do you have a DSE near you ? R3037 -1uF 7.5x8x5mm or even R3038 1.5uF 7.5x12x6mm could be used. (space permitting) I have never tried NP where polarised is normally fitted. Your chosen Panasonic should be O.K. , but you really need to know the voltages at that point to be 100% certain that 50V rating is enough. SandyK
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on Jun 9, 2007 3:00:42 GMT
sandy - I have you a little confused, the 1uf's are polarised and your suggesting a NP poly cap from DSE ? and yet you havent tried using a np cap in place of a polarised ?
The 100nf and 220nf caps were the ones I was talking about there. - I've got them sorted now.
The question I need to know is about the 1uf's polarised caps- I was wondering if I could change to either a Np CapXon or a polarised Panasonic NHG ? The existing cap is a teapo 1uf 50volt. Its a shame that FM or FC dont go that low...
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2007 3:46:01 GMT
Marc Yes, I am suggesting a 1-1.5 uF polycarbonate to replace a 1uF polarised electro. If I remember correctly, a NP electro is really 2 electros back to back. They wouldn't have used poly. originally because little electros are much cheaper . If my memory has let me down, I am sure many forum members will be happy to correct me. (I must remember to take my Gingko Forte !) Marc, if you had a 1uF input capacitor at the input to an amplifier, would your choice be an electrolytic, a polypropylene , or a polycarbonate? My choice would be 1.polypropylene, 2. polycarbonate, then 3. electrolytic. I do , however, remember that 100V polys have a lower distortion at LF than 63V ones of the same value Alex.
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on Jun 9, 2007 4:26:22 GMT
alex
I think that the poly will be too big though !
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2007 4:54:27 GMT
marc In that case ,you may be better off leaving the 1uF 63V as is. Mike will probably have a suitable replacement in mind.Don't forget Mike's advice to proceed slowly. If you do too many changes at once, it could end up sounding worse. I know that you don't want to open and shut too often, but you really do need to carefully listen for a few days after a couple of changes.You have to assume that the guys at MF did know what they were doing , and concentrate at first on PSU electros replacement and other electros where you can readily obtain quality capacitors. The basic amplifier must have sounded pretty reasonable for it to command a 1,000 pounds price tag. Have you fitted that capacitor across the IEC mains socket as Mike recommended ? Alex Alex
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on Jun 10, 2007 6:37:18 GMT
Mike what's your thoughts ? The question I need to know is about the 1uf's polarised caps- I was wondering if I could change to either a Np CapXon or a polarised Panasonic NHG ? The existing cap is a teapo 1uf 50volt. Its a shame that FM or FC dont go that low...
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 10, 2007 9:51:24 GMT
Mike what's your thoughts ? The question I need to know is about the 1uf's polarised caps- I was wondering if I could change to either a Np CapXon or a polarised Panasonic NHG ? The existing cap is a teapo 1uf 50volt. Its a shame that FM or FC dont go that low...
Panasonic NHG will be fine Marc, you could also use a Rubycon YXF (RS stock them)
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on Jun 10, 2007 10:06:00 GMT
Thankyou mike- Ok I'm all systems go and everything is ordered that I need so far, I'll let you know and can post a new topic with pics once she's up and running- It wont take me long once the bits are here, RS said some are back ordered from RS UK (the Pana Fm's !)
Thanks for everybodys help - this is a GREAT website and people are VERY helpfull. ;D ;D ;D
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 10, 2007 10:24:50 GMT
Robbing bastards. I have all the parts and cheaper than RS but you didn't ask
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Spirit
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Post by Spirit on Jun 10, 2007 13:33:11 GMT
Brilliant thread I must say.
Much respect to you all.
What's the chances we could do a similar thing on an X-150?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 10, 2007 19:28:00 GMT
Brilliant thread I must say. Many thanks and welcome aboard What's the chances we could do a similar thing on an X-150? No problems at all, do you own one?
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on Jun 11, 2007 2:18:48 GMT
The X150 is a lovely amp - It will no doubt be crammed full of 85c Jamicon Caps- I believe even there top of the line A5 amps still have these capacitors too !
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Spirit
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Post by Spirit on Jun 11, 2007 2:54:05 GMT
No problems at all, do you own one? Before I did enough research on how [apparently] bad their new stuff is, I bought one yes Admittedly it is far better than the receiver I was using, but jamicon caps... a motorola opamp... At this stage, I'm considering putting a soic-dip socket in there, and then either putting in a opa4227 (quad 2227), or a LME49740 (quad LM4562), assuming that all the specs match up. Pins are the same, voltages are pretty similar... that's about as far as my electronics knowledge knows to check. I have LM4562's with the dc caps jumpered on my X-Meridian soundcard. Apparently the bass is better out of the 2227, so I thought LM4562 out to a 4227 in the amp might get me some brilliant midrange with some nice bass too Then a recap... and then whatever else it is you suggest Diodes look interesting... Cheers Phil Edit: rather than hijack this thread too much.... sorry Marc I've started a new one -> rockgrotto.proboards39.com/index.cgi?board=c&action=display&thread=1181536463
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Spirit
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Post by Spirit on Jun 11, 2007 4:36:53 GMT
The X150 is a lovely amp - It will no doubt be crammed full of 85c Jamicon Caps- I believe even there top of the line A5 amps still have these capacitors too ! So I've heard re the A5s... a shame... and yes... the X-150 *is* full of 85c Jamicons... Looks nice on my desk though
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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2007 5:48:44 GMT
spirit Did you replace the main filter capacitor in your soundcard too ? I read elsewhere that some people had a hell of a job getting the old one out, so I just shoved a 100nF across it. I fitted OPA2134 to front channels , as my headphone amp uses AD8066 and is already extremely dynamic and with a great top end too. My card is X-FI Extreme Music SandyK
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Spirit
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Post by Spirit on Jun 11, 2007 5:59:18 GMT
spirit Did you replace the main filter capacitor in your soundcard too ? I read elsewhere that some people had a hell of a job getting the old one out, so I just shoved a 100nF across it. I fitted OPA2134 to front channels , as my headphone amp uses AD8066 and is already extremely dynamic and with a great top end too. My card is X-FI Extreme Music SandyK I did not. From what I've read, there's *no* difference to only replacing the main filter cap. On the X-Meridian, those who've done it say replacing the opamp caps (as well as the main filter cap) leads to improved dynamics, and slightly better bass. I haven't done that yet
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on Jun 12, 2007 3:52:20 GMT
Here are the snub caps that I got from RS together with the ultra fast diodes. The snub caps seem quite big compared to the 1 watt diodes. They are 10nf 2kv Cermaic caps- Do the caps need to be 2Kv ones (presume that this 2000 V ) and have I got the right sized diodes.... they look a little small ? I think that thew diodes will be ok, but ?I could prob go a little smaller in physical size with the cermaic caps, can I use just normal ceramic caps for the diodes ? If so please advise what voltage etc thanks
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2007 4:15:23 GMT
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on Jun 12, 2007 10:16:31 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 12, 2007 20:01:32 GMT
I would stick with the 2k ones here
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on Jun 12, 2007 20:44:47 GMT
done, its always best to check ?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 12, 2007 23:03:34 GMT
done, its always best to check ? Sorry man I'm running on empty my end with so many different questions coming from so many different angles (not from this forum but from "everywhere" and that includes me questioning my own existence and sanity...... it must be something to do with the moon phase.... either that or I'm fit for the scrapheap).... I'm too old for all this and need spectacles and a kick up the arse............ (truth be told my mind isn't on it) The snubber must be rated at more than twice the transfomers peak output voltage...... I went in at 2kv to be on the VERY safe side as I haven't got a clue what the peak output voltage of your transformer is..... if you know (I'm too tired to read back through the thread) then treble the peak output voltage and that value of cap will be fine.... certainly nothing below. Mike (tired)
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on Jun 24, 2007 3:51:25 GMT
OK - All mods are performed and shes up and running. It will probably need a few hours on it before I have a serious listen. Its sounding good but not initially as good as I thought it would be ? How many hours will it need and how much better will a component sound, can it be a matter of night in day in the difference once run in or is it just a subtle difference (as per my previous experience with other components). Time will tell. Also All of the mods were performed at the same time so it (and I knew it but didn't want to pull it apart 1000 times) So it harder to tell what components have helped and what haven't. I'm Sure that all the Panasonic FM and FC's and the capxon Np's would have helped. These are also bypassed with a small 200nf poly and 680pf polystyrene. The other thing that I have done is added the extra 4700uf power cap to each 10 000uf for a bit more juice. I have also replaced the 3 diodes with ultra fast ones 4007's and added 3K snubber caps to these. I also replaced the 7 orange polyester caps with Metalized Polypropylene x2 ones of the same values. View www.jaycar.co.nz and enter under search part number RG5238. I'm wondering if I should have used Different ones of these such as the Evox that I did look at ? or should these be ok ? Not sure are Metalized X2's ok ? and they are rated at 250v AC which I think from memory equates to a higher DC rating ? From memory I used this cap in the xcan and it sounds.. stunning as well as the two bypass caps on the NP caps. The only other cap Im wondering about is the 1uf right at the top of each channel? There were no FM or FC's so we used a panasonic NHG 105c 1uf 50v that I also bypassed with the two bypass caps. See 4th photo, top centre. Appreciate your thoughts ? I will post a separate post with a how to with photos once I clarify the above. The good thing is that I am able to easily change components and add and updates... A couple of pics i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa68/marcm09/IMG_1876_1.jpg[/IMG]
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2007 4:33:42 GMT
Marc You are overdoing it with capacitor bypassing in general.The Panasonics etc ,being quality capacitors, need minimal bypassing. (if any!) You are making the capacitors favour the high treble, at the expense of a more natural sounding warmth. You can have too much of a "good thing" !
SandyK
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