nando
Been here a while!
The Frying Dutchman
Always look on the bright side of life
Posts: 393
|
Post by nando on Sept 18, 2017 20:14:33 GMT
Another project. This time the cd player of the Sony set of my son (well one of my sons, anyway). This is a project which is initiated by trouble playing discs by the cd player. It skips easily and the display showed the cd-text over and over again in an irregular manner. I thought: Pop it open and clean the inside and Bob's you unckle".... But. errr, no. Nice of Sony to place a sticker with a date inside. It says 29-04-1998. So the machine is 19 years old. In comparison to the Sony amp I did recently this is a lot less in build quality. My question is. Is it worth trying to repair it and learn from the experience of bin it and get an other one of the many available (secondhand) cd players? See for yourself: Placing a capacitor close to a transistor without a heatsink which gets hot... Recipi for disaster? Or an accountants way to sell another cd player in a few years? The right capacitor should be the same colour as the other blue one. These capacitors have no mark of any brand. The Panasonic don't have that either but I'm not feeling much confident in this machine. But the left blue capacitor has some brown dust like the other one but not visible on this photo. At the bottom of the photo there is a row of diodes which all have some black scorching marks and the first in the row left some burn marks on the pcb as well. Two Elna's close to transistors without heatsinks. Has the left Elna died? Again the diodes with burn marks. The flatcable is showing some strange colouring. On the photo it looks like shadows but it isn't, is brown color. It looks to me like it was a bit to hot there. Overall look of the inside.
|
|
nando
Been here a while!
The Frying Dutchman
Always look on the bright side of life
Posts: 393
|
Post by nando on Sept 23, 2017 19:21:23 GMT
Does anyone know what a diode with a 2B marking is? I can't find it, but maybe I'm looking for the wrong thing.
I will be trying to rejuvinate this cd player. Just for the fun of it and to learn a thing or two.
I already bought a Sony cdp-xe530 for my son so he can continue playing music. This 530 version is almost identical as the 520 which is pictured above. Interestingly the 530 seems to be a more expensive model because there are no anonymous caps in there. All caps are now Nichicon, Rubycon or United Chemi-con.
|
|
nando
Been here a while!
The Frying Dutchman
Always look on the bright side of life
Posts: 393
|
Post by nando on Sept 24, 2017 15:45:10 GMT
No one knows what a 2B diode is? Or anyone who knows where I could possibly find this information?
Is there a way to find schematics for this xe-520 cd player?
update: I selected capacitors at Mouser for replacing the old ones. Selecting on ripple current 105C and above and then choosing the cheapest one on the first page. Ending up with a nice selection of Panasonic, Nichicon, UCC capacitors.
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 24, 2017 19:07:07 GMT
Another project. This time the cd player of the Sony set of my son (well one of my sons, anyway). This is a project which is initiated by trouble playing discs by the cd player. It skips easily and the display showed the cd-text over and over again in an irregular manner. I thought: Pop it open and clean the inside and Bob's you unckle".... But. errr, no. Nice of Sony to place a sticker with a date inside. It says 29-04-1998. So the machine is 19 years old. In comparison to the Sony amp I did recently this is a lot less in build quality. My question is. Is it worth trying to repair it and learn from the experience of bin it and get an other one of the many available (secondhand) cd players? See for yourself: Placing a capacitor close to a transistor without a heatsink which gets hot... Recipi for disaster? Or an accountants way to sell another cd player in a few years? The right capacitor should be the same colour as the other blue one. These capacitors have no mark of any brand. The Panasonic don't have that either but I'm not feeling much confident in this machine. But the left blue capacitor has some brown dust like the other one but not visible on this photo. At the bottom of the photo there is a row of diodes which all have some black scorching marks and the first in the row left some burn marks on the pcb as well. Two Elna's close to transistors without heatsinks. Has the left Elna died? Again the diodes with burn marks. The flatcable is showing some strange colouring. On the photo it looks like shadows but it isn't, is brown color. It looks to me like it was a bit to hot there. Overall look of the inside. Hi Nando, The caps with "M" on them are 100% most definitely Panasonic M (general purpose) types: docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0027/0900766b800274c2.pdf
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 24, 2017 19:12:20 GMT
I haven't got a clue what the diodes are..... the "2B" doesn't give much info. I have a little gadget that can identify transistors / diodes but it's here and you're in the Netherlands. The diodes will probably be OK Nando, just desolder one leg and test them...... simple to test with a multimeter.
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 24, 2017 19:15:13 GMT
I haven't got a clue what the diodes are..... the "2B" doesn't give much info. I have a little gadget that can identify transistors / diodes but it's here and you're in the Netherlands. The diodes will probably be OK Nando, just desolder one leg and test them...... simple to test with a multimeter.
|
|
nando
Been here a while!
The Frying Dutchman
Always look on the bright side of life
Posts: 393
|
Post by nando on Sept 24, 2017 19:29:29 GMT
I haven't got a clue what the diodes are..... the "2B" doesn't give much info. I have a little gadget that can identify transistors / diodes but it's here and you're in the Netherlands. The diodes will probably be OK Nando, just desolder one leg and test them...... simple to test with a multimeter. You're on repeat mode ;-) I know 2B isn't much info but that's all I see on these five diodes. I have asked Mouser and Conrad as well, maybe they know. When I test them, what should I find? A diode is a one way street but what value should it have. Do you have the Peak Electronics DCA55 or 75? I just ordered a Peak ESR70 (as a start of something). When I don't use it I'm pretty sure I will be able to sell that thing.
|
|
nando
Been here a while!
The Frying Dutchman
Always look on the bright side of life
Posts: 393
|
Post by nando on Sept 25, 2017 19:28:11 GMT
Mouser and Conrad aren't very helpfull. Basically: "The computer says no". Then what's a way to find out? Desolder and send it to someone who has a Peak DCA75 or ZEN50?
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 25, 2017 20:07:11 GMT
Mouser and Conrad aren't very helpfull. Basically: "The computer says no". Then what's a way to find out? Desolder and send it to someone who has a Peak DCA75 or ZEN50? It's not a matter of them being not helpful Nando, they just don't know. Try restoring vintage radios where you are faced with parts that have NO markings I'm sure Leo would know what a "2B" is, I'll ask him to chip in with any ideas he may have...... I would probably stick some 1N4007 in their place and if they didn't go BANG! I would be quite disappointed but I'm quite strange when it comes to restoring cheap and nasty Sony CD players
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 25, 2017 20:23:10 GMT
Mouser and Conrad aren't very helpfull. Basically: "The computer says no". Then what's a way to find out? Desolder and send it to someone who has a Peak DCA75 or ZEN50? It's not a matter of them being not helpful Nando, they just don't know. Try restoring vintage radios where you are faced with parts that have NO markings I'm sure Leo would know what a "2B" is, I'll ask him to chip in with any ideas he may have...... I would probably stick some 1N4007 in their place and if they didn't go BANG! I would be quite disappointed but I'm quite strange when it comes to restoring cheap and nasty Sony CD players That was a joke BTW They don't call me Inspector MorseMike for no reason....... I too won't give up until I find out what B2 means Is it a vitamin diode maybe? A diode for a circuit that has rickets? A Seven Seas general purpose B2 diode may be just what the Doctor ordered? Let's wait until Leo has had a look at the diode in question.
|
|
leo
Been here a while!
Team wtf is it?
Posts: 3,638
|
Post by leo on Sept 25, 2017 21:06:02 GMT
I wouldn't worry too much about the diodes tbh, if its struggling to play discs I'd say the laser unit is on the way out. They lose power after a few years and cause errors, prices can vary from 10 quid up to over a hundred just depending on the unit used. Most cheap ones are KSS-210a/b , I'm not sure where to buy these anymore, if you look on the laser unit it'll be printed on it which it is. Replacing can be fiddly especially if you've never done it before , you may need to adjust the height of the spindle motor puck and the lasers sometimes require the eye pattern setting up on a scope . One thing you can try is applying a thin layer of grease on runner bar, the laser slides along a metal bar whilst reading the disc, sometimes muck can get clogged on here causing problems
Obviously recapping and resoldering any dry joints will help but if the lasers on the way out it'll just get worse until eventually it displays error . Did you try gently cleaning the lens ?
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 26, 2017 20:07:50 GMT
Totally agree Leo..... skipping is usually indicative of either a dirty CD, a dirty lense or a failing Mechanism. Best way to clean the lense is to "huff" on it with your breath and then very gently wipe the condensation off with a cotton wool bud. Under no circumstances go at the lens with any type of alcohol based cleaner, that can remove the anti glare coating on the lens. Martin Colloms The Sony mechanisms are usually KISS drives (that's what I call them) KSS is their proper name but KISS is more memorable They are worm and peg mechanisms and not swinging arm so, yes, check they are lubricated with the correct type of grease...... don't lash on fresh grease, remove the dried up grease with a cotton wool bud and apply the fresh grease very sparingly..... go with white lithium, it's as good as any for the job..... I always follow through with a very small shot of silicone grease sprayed on a cotton wool bud....... has kept my fleet of CD-52's going so no reason to doubt it. Best regards, Mike.
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 26, 2017 20:21:11 GMT
|
|
nando
Been here a while!
The Frying Dutchman
Always look on the bright side of life
Posts: 393
|
Post by nando on Sept 28, 2017 7:22:10 GMT
If I don't have to replace the kss driver, I'm nog going to. I have some silicone spray, so I ca try that. I want to clean the laser but I'm not to that bit yet.
Skipping wasn't the only thing that went wrong. The display was doing strange things as well.
I have removed all capacitors and three had to high esr (measured with Peak ESR70). These are the little 100uF 16V 85C from United Chemi-Con.
Flickr is having trouble so I'm not able to place some photo's yet.
The diodes are measuring very strange by the way. I thought a diode would have a high resistance one way (way of the arrow) and the other a much low(er) Ohm value. But these in this cd player are as following. 2 x diodes 24,8 kOhm both ways 2 x diodes to high to measure (2000kOhm+) both ways 1 x 105 kOhm both ways
If these diodes have no "direction" at all, why use them? Or they all have failed...
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 28, 2017 7:42:52 GMT
|
|
nando
Been here a while!
The Frying Dutchman
Always look on the bright side of life
Posts: 393
|
Post by nando on Sept 28, 2017 9:22:15 GMT
Cool! Learned something again. RTFM ofcourse... I have a multimeter with a diode setting. All 5 diodes measure from 630 to 660V and are unmeasurable the other way around. So statistically it's quite unlikely that all 5 have failed in exactly the same way. So am I right to conclude the diodes are good (enough)?
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 28, 2017 10:09:19 GMT
Yup, they're fine
|
|
nando
Been here a while!
The Frying Dutchman
Always look on the bright side of life
Posts: 393
|
Post by nando on Sept 28, 2017 13:04:44 GMT
Diodes are going back in.
I am checking resistors and one in particular is unmeasurable even outside the circuit (one pin out). It should be a normal resistor. Code = brown black brown silver silver. I think it's a 1Ohm with a 10% tolerance. Strange... maybe faulty or am I doing someting wrong again?
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 28, 2017 20:33:37 GMT
Diodes are going back in. I am checking resistors and one in particular is unmeasurable even outside the circuit (one pin out). It should be a normal resistor. Code = brown black brown silver silver. I think it's a 1Ohm with a 10% tolerance. Strange... maybe faulty or am I doing someting wrong again? When you say "unmeasurable" what reading is your multimeter giving you? What type of of Multimeter is it and what range are you on or is it auto ranging?
|
|
leo
Been here a while!
Team wtf is it?
Posts: 3,638
|
Post by leo on Oct 1, 2017 7:34:45 GMT
If the lens is struggling to read the disc accurately it will probably also cause display issues because the data is corrupt . If one of the diodes have gone you'd know about . If you want to just change them I'd say they are just general purpose 1n4002 going by the B2 marking. Another thing to try is the capacitor for the transport section, these can go dry and cause issues for the laser. without a data sheet I've no idea which it is though
|
|
leo
Been here a while!
Team wtf is it?
Posts: 3,638
|
Post by leo on Oct 1, 2017 7:42:19 GMT
The black soot just looks like a collection of dust to me, it sticks to electronic components like a magnet and builds up over the years. Obviously capacitors reliability don't fare well after being close to hot integrated circuitry , the problem is the capacitor has to be close to some IC's for them to be effective at decoupling . Its as if the manufacturers didn't care about long time reliability for their products
|
|