elysion
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Post by elysion on Jun 20, 2010 13:20:35 GMT
Those SR80's look nice, Miguel. Very good work The only Grado product that I own is a Y-cable. I can't say much about them, beside they have astronomical prices here in Switzerland which is one of the reasons that prevent me from buying one. Another reason is the (lacking) comfort. I like circum-aural 'phones much more than those with supra-aural construction. I have a HD25-1/II and a HD414 (50th anniversary edition) which are both supra-aural. The HD414 is very comfortable with only a very slight pressure on the ears. The HD25-1/II's are very good 'phones but not for extended listening session. I prefer K702/HD650 for this purpose.
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mrarroyo
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Post by mrarroyo on Jun 20, 2010 16:56:37 GMT
Part of the pressure issue can be solved by bending the headband, it has a piece of steel inside. The other part deals with the foam bowls, this take a while to soften. You can accelerate the process by washing in lukewarm water and a mild liquid soap. Then air dry them overnight.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2010 17:00:05 GMT
For those who do not know Mike has a pair of Grado SR225, I understand they are not his favorite cans. I am one of those who loves the Grado sound specially the wood ones like the RS-1 and RS-2. Recently I had an SR80 heavily modded including a set of walnut wood cups made by a Canadian artisan. So I was in touch w/ a friend in Spain who had a set of wood cups made out of the Iroko tree for his Grado and after some negotiations I obtained a set with the intent of sending them to Mike to improve the sound and looks of his SR225. Well I recently received them and will be sending them for installation and final finish. I suggested via PM to either use lacquer or tung oil. Here are a couple of pictures as they are now. In addition to finishing them Mike will have to glue the grills using a semi-permanent glue stick I will be sending or using hot glue. I sure look forward to seeing them installed on Mike's SR225. Enjoy them Mike. Hi, I am wondering if anyone knows where I can get grill material such as the one in this photo. I have been trying to remove the veiled quality of my HD650 Senns, and I find that removing the foam from the front of the drivers dramatically opens up the sound. I am afraid, however, that leaving the drivers open leaves them vulnerable to damage. Any suggestions will be most appreciated.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2010 17:13:15 GMT
If you can't find it in DIY stores here's what I did.
Look around the bazaars/£ stores/$ stores/thrifts or whatever they are known as to you and look for litter bins or desk trays/tidies made of the mesh/colour you want. Then just cut to size.
p.s. do you play the flute? (ref your avatar)
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elysion
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Post by elysion on Jun 21, 2010 18:42:37 GMT
Imagemaker18: I'm almost sure you'll find something appropriate in a DIY store.
Maybe some fly-screens also do the job (if they're made from metal).
Probably the hardest thing is to get the right shape, at least if you need a curved/3D-form (depends on the headphones).
Why not stick with the original grills? Removing the foam is one thing, but I don't think the grill itself changes sound significantly. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I have also a HD650. I'll have a closer look soon.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2010 20:45:22 GMT
If you can't find it in DIY stores here's what I did. Look around the bazaars/£ stores/$ stores/thrifts or whatever they are known as to you and look for litter bins or desk trays/tidies made of the mesh/colour you want. Then just cut to size. p.s. do you play the flute? (ref your avatar) Hi, cjarchez Thanks for your advice. I have been searching on the net, and found that a hobby store not too far from where I live offers a hook rug canvas, which is in effect a fairly wide stiff rope mesh, hence relatively acoustically transparent (I hope). They also have listed some plastic hook rug canvas, which may be preferable. What do you think? Should I go for the plastic or the rope canvas? Maybe I will buy both, and experiment. Any input from you will be appreciated. And, yes. I play the flute. That was my profession for many years. I am a retired classical concert flutist. All the Best!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2010 21:02:11 GMT
Imagemaker18: I'm almost sure you'll find something appropriate in a DIY store. Maybe some fly-screens also do the job (if they're made from metal). Probably the hardest thing is to get the right shape, at least if you need a curved/3D-form (depends on the headphones). Why not stick with the original grills? Removing the foam is one thing, but I don't think the grill itself changes sound significantly. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I have also a HD650. I'll have a closer look soon. Hi, elysion Thanks for your response! I have only removed the foam that covers the front of the drivers, and do not plan on removing the grills at all. Removing the foam, to my ears at least, had the effect of dramatically lifting the veil from the laid back HD650 cans, which I had already also re-cabled with my DIY Cardas cable and Cardas Plug. Without the foam now I like them much better. I only plan to use the mesh for the purpose of keeping my big ears from coming into direct contact with the delicate drivers. That is all I am trying to accomplish. ;D I know that putting anything between the ears and the sound source has an effect on the sound signature, therefore I want to use a mesh that is as wide open as possible for the least effect. See my response to cjarchez. All the Best!
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mrarroyo
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Post by mrarroyo on Jun 21, 2010 23:08:02 GMT
Imagemaker18: use a woman's stocking and stretch it over the driver and then install the ear pad which will hold the stretched woman's stocking in place.
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elysion
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Post by elysion on Jun 21, 2010 23:19:56 GMT
Sorry for the misunderstanding on my side. Another solution would be the use of very fine cloth, for example like the cloth used with AKG K701/K02 or something like that: This are my HD560 Ovation II's. I have bought them used and the formerly used foam had already disintegrated. I cleaned the 'phones and I needed also something for the protection of the drivers (and for the look). I used very fine cloth from an old and very often washed T-shirt. While using the cloth with them, I don't hear anything negative. It's cheap and you can easy do it with a lot of Sennheiser 'phones like the HD580/600/650 or HD530/540/560/570. Just remove the pads and replace the foam with the cloth. The color of my old T-shirt isn't really a good match with the HD560 OvII's but it's OK and I can easily choose another color/cloth if I would like.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2010 16:48:28 GMT
Here is what I did: At my wife's suggestion I went to the nearby hobby store and for $3.49 picked up a rather stiff cotton hook rug canvas that looks like this: I cut two pieces to size and spray-painted them with waterproof paint: I have not noticed any difference in SQ compared to bare drivers. Thanks for all your suggestions!
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elysion
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Post by elysion on Jun 22, 2010 17:38:41 GMT
I will try something similar with my HD650. I was never a big fan of the foam used above the drivers.
What about the HD25-1/II's? They have also some foam over their drivers and the foam is easily replaced also.
As long as I use cloth or a cotton "mesh" like imagemaker18 did, I guess the protection of the drivers would be equal or better than with the foam.
IMO the idea from imagemaker18's wife is great, but personally I would like a mesh with somewhat more density (smaller "holes").
The fly-screen approach could be also intersting because there are a couple of materials used for them (plastics, metal, synthetic fibres).
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2010 19:09:41 GMT
I will try something similar with my HD650. I was never a big fan of the foam used above the drivers. What about the HD25-1/II's? They have also some foam over their drivers and the foam is easily replaced also. As long as I use cloth or a cotton "mesh" like imagemaker18 did, I guess the protection of the drivers would be equal or better than with the foam. IMO the idea from imagemaker18's wife is great, but personally I would like a mesh with somewhat more density (smaller "holes"). The fly-screen approach could be also intersting because there are a couple of materials used for them (plastics, metal, synthetic fibres). I am very happy with the way this turned out. I also did the same thing with my HD600 Senns, and intend to do the same on my two pairs of modded Superlux HD681's. I also have the HD25-1/II Senns, and they will probably get the same treatment. At this point I am so sold on this, that I will even do this on my ancient Sony MDR-V6 cans, which I haven't used for years, just to see if there is any improvement in SQ. Why do you think that a denser material would be better? IMHO the less material between the ear and the sound source, the better. The wide mesh protects the drivers well with the least amount of intrusion, but maybe I can be proven wrong. I can only tell what I can hear, and the results to my ears are very satisfying.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 22, 2010 20:05:51 GMT
You guys do realise that if a hair or accumulation of dust makes its way onto the diaphragm you can end up with some pretty distorted sound? The foam is there for a reason, to stop foreign bodies touching the diaphragm, whilst being as acoustically transparent as possible.... you are really better protecting the diaphragm from the ingress of dust / hair / dead skin etc. because once there is an accumulation it will adversely affect the SQ and, with the diaphragm being a VERY delicate object, it's not simply a matter of aiming a vacuum cleaner in it's general direction Much better finding a "barrier" between diaphragm and ear that is acoustically transparent.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2010 20:21:30 GMT
You guys do realise that if a hair or accumulation of dust makes its way onto the diaphragm you can end up with some pretty distorted sound? The foam is there for a reason, to stop foreign bodies touching the diaphragm, whilst being as acoustically transparent as possible.... you are really better protecting the diaphragm from the ingress of dust / hair / dead skin etc. because once there is an accumulation it will adversely affect the SQ and, with the diaphragm being a VERY delicate object, it's not simply a matter of aiming a vacuum cleaner in it's general direction Much better finding a "barrier" between diaphragm and ear that is acoustically transparent. Thanks for the input, Mike! Do you have any ideas about acoustically transparent materials? What would be a suitable material? IMHO the more density the barrier between the ear and the diaphragm has, the less acoustically transparent it will be, hence the dilemma!
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 22, 2010 20:23:38 GMT
Imagemaker18: use a woman's stocking and stretch it over the driver and then install the ear pad which will hold the stretched woman's stocking in place. Pink Tip...... make sure the woman has taken them off first Also make sure she has washed them for you or some of her leg hair may be embedded in the "weave" which will cause "grattle" if it comes in contact with the diaphragm. For the ultimate sonic experience, place stocking over the head thus: This technique ensures closest ear to filter ratio and provides higher highs and lower lows....... Be sure not to go out in public sporting this "tweak" or you are likely to be "bundled" by 25 licensed thugs in uniform screaming "get your face on the floor!" This poor bitch went for the "full out" HD-600 increase the veil mods and was shot on sight at Heathrow airport My advice...... if you're going for the full out "total head" mods.... stay indoors The "law" may mistake an innocent headphone tweak for something a lot more sinister
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 22, 2010 20:35:03 GMT
You guys do realise that if a hair or accumulation of dust makes its way onto the diaphragm you can end up with some pretty distorted sound? The foam is there for a reason, to stop foreign bodies touching the diaphragm, whilst being as acoustically transparent as possible.... you are really better protecting the diaphragm from the ingress of dust / hair / dead skin etc. because once there is an accumulation it will adversely affect the SQ and, with the diaphragm being a VERY delicate object, it's not simply a matter of aiming a vacuum cleaner in it's general direction Much better finding a "barrier" between diaphragm and ear that is acoustically transparent. Thanks for the input, Mike! Do you have any ideas about acoustically transparent materials? What would be a suitable material? IMHO the more density the barrier between the ear and the diaphragm has, the less acoustically transparent it will be, hence the dilemma! Without turning this thread kinky you are looking at 8 denier stockings..... the "denier" rating is explained thus: "Denier: The lower the denier number the sheerer the garment. Stockings knitted with a higher denier tend to be less sheer but more durable." Sooooo.... the lower the denier rating the better...... I find 8 denier Pretty Polly ( www.mytights.com/gb/pretty-polly-8-denier-natural-tights.html ) pretty transparent sounding and they're comfortable to wear under jeans too
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 22, 2010 20:37:29 GMT
This company goes as low as 7 denier.... may be worth trying stockingirl.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=miccina&Product_Code=SG7DS&Category_Code="Sabrina stockings are the ultimate in lightweight summer stockings. Made in Europe, our "gossamer sheer" 100% 7 denier Nylon stockings add only a hint of smooth color to your legs. Stockings are ultra soft and will feel wonderful on. These stockings are literally feather light and will actually float in the air if tossed! Stockings have fully knit in toes and heels with barely perceptible reinforcements." So........ "stockings" are not just stockings..... for the best "acoustically transparent" stockings you have to source the lowest denier..... maximum sound transmission, maximum protection against foreign body ingress..... I feel a crossdressing thread coming on
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Post by Deleted on Jun 23, 2010 15:27:23 GMT
This company goes as low as 7 denier.... may be worth trying stockingirl.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=miccina&Product_Code=SG7DS&Category_Code="Sabrina stockings are the ultimate in lightweight summer stockings. Made in Europe, our "gossamer sheer" 100% 7 denier Nylon stockings add only a hint of smooth color to your legs. Stockings are ultra soft and will feel wonderful on. These stockings are literally feather light and will actually float in the air if tossed! Stockings have fully knit in toes and heels with barely perceptible reinforcements." So........ "stockings" are not just stockings..... for the best "acoustically transparent" stockings you have to source the lowest denier..... maximum sound transmission, maximum protection against foreign body ingress..... I feel a crossdressing thread coming on This is becoming more and more interesting! Using a sheer stocking would add some sexy fetishism to the fun of listening! I hate to spoil the fun, but on the more serious side, although I am not too familiar with the wooden Grado's, the grid, as shown in the original post (page 1 of this thread), seems to be the only barrier protecting the diaphragm, unless I am very mistaken. Please correct me if I am wrong.
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mrarroyo
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Post by mrarroyo on Jun 23, 2010 22:28:44 GMT
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elysion
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Post by elysion on Jun 24, 2010 17:36:47 GMT
You guys do realise that if a hair or accumulation of dust makes its way onto the diaphragm you can end up with some pretty distorted sound? The foam is there for a reason, to stop foreign bodies touching the diaphragm, whilst being as acoustically transparent as possible.... you are really better protecting the diaphragm from the ingress of dust / hair / dead skin etc. because once there is an accumulation it will adversely affect the SQ and, with the diaphragm being a VERY delicate object, it's not simply a matter of aiming a vacuum cleaner in it's general direction Much better finding a "barrier" between diaphragm and ear that is acoustically transparent. Thanks for the information. Looks like it was good that I have modded only the HD560 OvII's so far. Those 'phones had no foam anymore and needed something for protection (and look). BTW: What do you think about the cloth I have used? At least to my ears there's nothing that would annoy me. I guess it's (almost?) acoustically transparent. It's really fine cloth that was often washed. Probably I'll go also for a cloth replacement for the HD650 and maybe the HD25-1/II and HD580. I don't see problems with this and the mod can be reversed easily.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2010 18:37:30 GMT
Mike is absolutely right ! This is how I made my HD650 and Creative Aurvana Live dust filters. Cut a piece of sturdy cardboard to the right shape (smaller then the hole in the pad for the HD650) stretch nylon stocking/sock over a jar or something else that is big enough. Secure it with a rubber band. Put glue on the cardboard ring (everywhere, I used superglue, dries fast) lay the ring on the stretched stocking. Let the glue dry/set. Take it off the jar and trim the edge of the ring. paint the ring (I used a black felt pen). ready.. Does not alter the sound in any way !
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 28, 2010 21:42:09 GMT
Miguel, I've got the SR-80's all prepared for the fitting of the wooden cups I have fitted Evolution Pro starquad cable and have secured the cable entry points to the cups with something a bit more substantial than the "cable tie" that grado use. I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw a cable tie around the cable preventing the cable from coming out.... hell that's almost as primitive as tying a knot in it!!.... The construction quality of these things is positively prosaic (to put it nicely), they look like someone has knocked them up on his kitchen table Anyways.... I have "also" fitted a cable tie but have supplemented it with epoxy resin so not only will the cable not be able to come out it will no longer be able to go "in" either I have also applied complimentary epoxy resin cable fixing to the magnet so the cable is now effectively secured in the capsule and not subjected to "any" movement at all.... it is totally stationary and, even if you tug the cable, will not move. While I was at it I applied a bead of butyl rubber sealant between driver fixing / enclosure... this adds a bit of mass and will also cut down / eliminate any potential mechanical resonances.... I have terminated the starquad cable with a pro grade Neutrik 6.3mm jack so, so far, the mod is going to plan.... the rather "flaky" fixing systen Grado employ has been replaced with something a lot more solid. I'll take some pics of the work so far tomorrow and look forward to fitting the wooden cups Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 28, 2010 21:56:20 GMT
Also got some Liberon 0000 grade steel wool and some tung oil so will finish the cups with Tung oil thus: Coat 1: 50% white spirit / 50% Tung oil Coat 2: 50% white spirit / 50% Tung oil Coat 3: 30% white spirit / 70% Tung oil Coat 4: 10% white spirit / 90% Tung oil Coat 5: 100% Tung oil Coat 6: 100% Tung oil After each coat I will rub down with 0000 grade Liberon wire wool. When the Tung coatings have been completed I will finish with two applications of Black bison wax (clear) Should look pretty nifty
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mrarroyo
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Post by mrarroyo on Jun 29, 2010 0:37:58 GMT
The wood cups were shipped earlier today! With all the work you will be doing they should look awesome. Enjoy them.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 29, 2010 10:59:17 GMT
The wood cups were shipped earlier today! With all the work you will be doing they should look awesome. Enjoy them. Cheers.... the cable looks a bit gay though, I'd run out of black heatshrink so used red instead (to cover the twisted pairs).... I think it would have looked better all black but, what the hell, it's done now.
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