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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 2, 2010 16:23:09 GMT
Right, I will get straight to the point...... the IRF510 MOSFET "trounces" the stock IRF630 in my opinion. The top end is a lot more pronounced, the mids are more informative and the bass integrates beautifully. It's not "perfect" (and I wouldn't expect an amp costing £50 to BE perfect) but, as far as I'm concerned the IRF510 is a major upgrade to the G2. They only cost pennies so, if you don't like them simply retrofit the IRF630. I believe Leo has also been experimenting with the IRF510 in his G2.... would be nice to hear what you think Leo..... I thought they was fiddly to fit in the G2 but certainly worth the effort IMHO, noticeably more HF detail coming through, less roll off. Leo, There's an "easy way" for everything To replace the 630 with IRF510 in the G2 all you have to do is this..... 1: Remove the 1000uF cap. Get a pair of pliers and turn the rod that connects both heatsinks together back and forth a couple of times (this loosens the screw that secures the MOSFET to the heatsink) Remove the screw with a small "flat blade" screwdriver (easier to get in than a philips) 2: Desolder the 630 Mosfet using a desolder pump then remove it: 3: Slot in the IRF510, screw it onto the heatsink then solder it (soldering iron temp. high). All you have to do now is replace the 1000uF cap..... repeat for the other side. Took me 15 minutes to do both MOSFETS.
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leo
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Post by leo on Apr 2, 2010 18:02:42 GMT
Nicely done mr Pink Only an idea but it maybe worth moving your post to the start of the modding thread because I personally think it will prove extremely useful for others wanting a bash. I did it the fiddly way, removing the LM317 's so I could get to the screws with my driver, your way is better I had to fit fresh screws too because the metal for the stock ones seemed very soft
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 3, 2010 10:43:10 GMT
Look at the testimonials at the bottom of the Indeed G2 ebay listing "First impression is, very nice, not creaming my pants yet" "Overall very nice and i am pleased with it, more time for it to settle, and then maybe some extra pairs of clean underwear will be required." "Its giving me a very strong prior warning of incoming texts, and not quiet as strong on outgoing ones." LOL
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2010 14:48:12 GMT
I've given my G2 (EH6922) a good, long burn in and a comparative listen. (it's still in standard guise). There is no denying that for the money it's very good, but compared to my Ming Da / V2 / SCHA it is massively out classed ( I didn't waste my money there then ). For me, I find it hates the K701, I hear background distortion when using these, in the form of graininess to the lower mids through to lower highs on many recordings, which are fine through other amps. Maybe it's the volume I listen at? About "Ten - thirty". If specifically listening out I can hear it on the HD600 to a lesser extent but it seems ok with my other 'phones, which is fine as it was with these I intended its use, especially the Superlux 662 (closed back). Plus, its diminutive size also lends itself to my intended usage. I'm watching the tweaks thread with great interest and look forward to tinkering! As it stands it fulfills its requirement as bedside (L)amp very well. If , however, more SQ can be teased out of it, so much the better. I do find it a more bop-along listen than my home grown CMoy. I do want my HFs back though!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2010 18:19:54 GMT
10.30 is quite loud for me. I might hit about 9.00 which may account for me not hearing the crosstalk sound.
It isn't as clean loud since I have tried it now we all know about it. It does go 'grainy' but I don't listen for that long at those volumes.
Funny that I found the K701 a bit more mellow with it. It's not as extended as other amps up top and I found that quite nice on the 701!
Ian
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leo
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Post by leo on Apr 3, 2010 21:07:04 GMT
About 8:00 is more than enough for me with the HD250's
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 3, 2010 21:51:53 GMT
About 8:00 is more than enough for me with the HD250's I used to be a 2pm man but these days I've toned down to around 9am for general listening (ie: sitting at the computer / typing) but when I have a good session away from the computer rig I'm usually to be found at the 1pm position (on normal amps / normal gain).... if you really want to get into the music it has to be a "realistic" volume level IMO... listening to a rock concert at the 8am position is like driving a ferrari at 30MPH with a crash helmet on your head ;D I find the emotion and involvement of the music is lost at sub 11am levels...... don't get me wrong I enjoy "surfing" whilst listening at 9am but consider it background music, not serious "involvement" type listening. Just my tuppence ha'penny worth
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 3, 2010 21:55:43 GMT
By the way..... the IRF510 have had a few hours on them now and the sound is FAR better with them on board.... bye bye rolled of highs / hello top end sparkle.....
Still far from ideal "technically" but a very nice listen for £59.... I am running a Mullard ECC88 biased at 14.5V per side and the crosstalk seems a lot lower than 6922.
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Post by MaN227 on Apr 4, 2010 2:31:56 GMT
By the way..... the IRF510 have had a few hours on them now and the sound is FAR better with them on board.... bye bye rolled of highs / hello top end sparkle..... Still far from ideal "technically" but a very nice listen for £59.... I am running a Mullard ECC88 biased at 14.5V per side and the crosstalk seems a lot lower than 6922. I have been wanting to ask this or mention it I suppose. what cans someone uses and hears improvements should be noted. I am going to guess PF you are talking bout through the modded hd681? just been thinking about that for quite some time actually. different cans that need more top end 'help' would sound good through it with this change. This is one of the reasons I have different cans and diff amps and such. different moods, different sounds, different options. there are some very good combo's and some piss poor combos too. ;D Peace
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 4, 2010 10:45:10 GMT
Chaz.... I listen mainly through Sennheiser HD-250ll Linears.... HD-600 used to be my reference 'phones but the drivers wore out.... I have a new pair arriving shortly so will be listening through them for a while.
When I am "critically" listening to something it's closed backs.... HD250, HD-25/1, DT-150 etc.
General purpose listening I use my open 'phones, K-501 / HD-681 / HD-600 / HD-414 / HD-668B / DR-150 / SR-60 / SR-225 / portapro etc.
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leo
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Post by leo on Apr 5, 2010 21:40:02 GMT
About 8:00 is more than enough for me with the HD250's I used to be a 2pm man but these days I've toned down to around 9am for general listening (ie: sitting at the computer / typing) but when I have a good session away from the computer rig I'm usually to be found at the 1pm position (on normal amps / normal gain).... if you really want to get into the music it has to be a "realistic" volume level IMO... listening to a rock concert at the 8am position is like driving a ferrari at 30MPH with a crash helmet on your head ;D I find the emotion and involvement of the music is lost at sub 11am levels...... don't get me wrong I enjoy "surfing" whilst listening at 9am but consider it background music, not serious "involvement" type listening. Just my tuppence ha'penny worth I meant about 8am for the G2, I wouldn't dare use that amp at 2pm, the distortion would send me deaf At what volume I listen to the G2 at the crosstalk etc isn't a problem BTW I have bias set to a steady 15v, heater voltage increase to 6v2 and no way those IRF630 are going back in ;D
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Post by goinglite on May 3, 2010 6:04:32 GMT
At first, I didn't really like the sound of the Indeed G2 tube amp. However, after leaving this amp on for a few hours, it really "opened" up. The "hotter" this amp gets, the better it sounds.
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Post by resetter on May 18, 2010 14:43:37 GMT
Just got my amp trough ebay, but when i use it on my pc there is a big hiss, but afaik thats from the soundcard itself.
What i did notice is that these overpower my HD595 rather fast, a quarter of the way up on the volume knob and it will distort, is that normal?
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2010 15:35:30 GMT
What i did notice is that these overpower my HD595 rather fast, a quarter of the way up on the volume knob and it will distort, is that normal?
Unfortunately .... yes.
You can do something about it but it involves some soldering. The vol pot has to be replaced by a log type pot OR you can solder 2 resistors to kind of mimic logarithmic vol control. There is info on this on the bravo/Indeed modification threads.
EVERY volume control is usually logarithmic. I do not understand why they use linear type vol pots.. Nobody does that... perhaps they were able to buy lin types cheaper...
When you are able to solder replace the IRF630 with IRL510 or IRL530 and the amp will be amplifying the higher frequencies too (it's rather rolled off in stock condition)
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Post by resetter on May 18, 2010 17:13:35 GMT
Tnx Solderdude, i already noticed they started sounding better after a few hours, it was really harsh in the beginning, already read up a bit, and already orderd 2 of the IRF510 mosfett`s Now looking into the capasitors, i ve seen the 1000uF replaced by 6800uF, any reason for the big differance? for instance will 2200uF do as well? as i think my mate has a few NICHICON Fine gold ones laying around :edit: dint notice they where talking about the big one lol :X Any other ideas on replacing, like the 6800uF one for a 35 one to keep in a bit better in check, what about the 1000uF ones next to it.? :edit number2: FIY im talking about the Indeed Hybrid Tube Headphone Amplifier 6922EH, as its basically the same. Ill have a look at the other pots, whats the stock Ohm measure on those things im a lazy basterd dint check it yet, did however set the bias to 12 volts on each side as there was a 1,5volt differance.
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2010 18:02:27 GMT
IRL is better then IRF ! lower distortion AND further extended highs !
The 3 caps in the Power supply should be changed to 35V types... 24 Volts on 25V types is not recommended.
the 2 output caps of 25V is fine (they have around 8 to 10 Votls DC on them) Could change them with other types or even 2200uF types.
G2 is basically the same as the other amps. G2 has input selector and accepts 6 and 12V tubes. Board layout is different.
BEWARE of cinch in/output plugs with long centre pins. When they hit the cooling fins you'll destroy whatever you connected to it (carries 24V DC) HelliHarris found this out the hard way ! The schematic is the same as older amps.
The pot is a 10k lin type and can be replaced by anything between 5k and 100k log type pots.
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Post by resetter on May 18, 2010 18:42:33 GMT
The 3 caps near the end have to be the same value 2x 1000uF and 1x 6800uF? Good tip on the chinch plugs one, if i where to add the resistors on the potmeter what values and which pins.
As for highs i find them a bit harsh on the ears, sounds to crisp/loud almost like a compressed mp3, that might be of the recordings, as some albums from Toto dont have that problem, same with the older albums of metallica the newer albums hurts my ears...
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2010 20:50:03 GMT
Put in whatever value you want. As long as they are 35 Volts and will physically fit. The values will very likely be lower then they are now.
2k2 resistors between the center pin and the common (ground) on a 10k pot (103 on housing) will give better results. a log vol pot would be preferable.
Compression on the newer albums sound terrible to hifi enthusiasts but great to people who don't care. Guess what the largest (target) group is...
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Post by resetter on May 18, 2010 21:35:50 GMT
Yea the loudness war claims victims again :/
I think about what I`m going to say next is called the "third speaker"
If I take out one of the rca inputs, say left, then i can hear the sound crossing over to the other side but softly and distorted as hell, also happens when I play with the balance on the pc mixer.
Is this so so called Crossfeed ?, I cant hear it when playing normal tunes, think i should find a track with extreme left and right signals.
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Post by resetter on May 23, 2010 8:55:04 GMT
The hiss and distortion on extreme left and right is now gone, seems the amp has opend up quite a bit, i like it.
Im just waiting for the capasitors and other mosfets to arrive, altough i cant find those little red Wima`s on ebay. And i have yet to find a new 6800uF cap on 35volts that will fit, only ones i could find where to high.
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 23, 2010 9:12:05 GMT
The hiss and distortion on extreme left and right is now gone, seems the amp has opend up quite a bit, i like it. Im just waiting for the capasitors and other mosfets to arrive, altough i cant find those little red Wima`s on ebay. And i have yet to find a new 6800uF cap on 35volts that will fit, only ones i could find where to high. You'll get the WIMA caps here: www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Capacitors/Polyester/MKS2-Miniature-polyester-capacitors/625103u3 = 3.3uF...... I keep these in stock so, if you're in the UK, I can send them to you and it will save you the £3.95 postage Rapid charge..... let me know.
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 23, 2010 9:18:33 GMT
I wish it were crossfeed...... no, it's "cross talk" which is different.... sound bleeding from one chaneel into the other and vice versa.... ideally there should be ZERO crosstalk but, with these amps, there is quite a bit of it.....
Even with the crosstalk the amp sounds good and the added distortion the crosstalk brings about is probably, in part, responsible for giving the amp the sonic signature it has.... the amp sounds good, it is cheap, the specs are all over the place and it picks up RFI...... BUT, it is what it is and it makes very nice music..... far from perfect technically but very musical.
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Post by resetter on May 24, 2010 22:51:06 GMT
They do sound nice tbh, and yes it does pickup quite a lot of RFI, but its cheap and for the money really good value in my opinion. But no im located in the Netherlands, but if you can hook me up that would be great, any idea for the big 8600uF 35 volt caps ? or do i just have to make an extra hole in the plexiglass
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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2010 12:20:31 GMT
Oh brown-smelly-stuff! My psu just died A small popping sound, from the psu, followed by eerie silence and not an LED or glowing filament to be seen. I have emailed Indeed, as it's less than 3 months old, and am waiting to see if they will play ball. On the positive side, I have decided on a new casework for it, in fact I've finished it. So while the amp is out of action I can re-house it; piccys to follow...
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Post by resetter on May 26, 2010 13:09:02 GMT
Do share, I`ve been thinking of making a metal mesh box for it to cut down RFI, as I`m going deaf when my mobile does anything..
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