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Post by guadixman on Jan 25, 2010 16:46:33 GMT
Mike, durability is the one big niggle I have with my i/cs, I'm not going to b/s myself or anyone else about this.
That's why I build them with the naturel bend of the dialectric/sat cable.
As you can imagine I also am fitting and removing constantly but I handle them carefully so no problem.
When I have sent previous examples to others to try I always emphasize how they should be handled.
The problem I'm sure you are aware is not the fragility of the conductors used but the stiffness of the dialectric that causes the problem.
As always money or enough of it to approach a manufacturer to produce a flexible dialectric would cure the problem.
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Post by guadixman on Feb 25, 2010 16:43:51 GMT
Before posting today I had another look at the whole thread.
I can't argue with Rick's take on his minimalist i/cs only on his choice of copper conductors.
Mike, you really have a 'problem' with boutique components don't you. If you were to treat your i/cs with some respect and not a 'macho' mentality, after all they are not some kind of weight training devise are they. I don't have that problem with i/cs because I treat them with respect.
On Sunday last I had an amazing experience, which in hindsight I should have realised already.
When I decided that I had gone as far as I could with using mil. spec wire that was always wrapped in either Teflon or Kapton and only after an American mate on Headfi helped me out dealing with the American business mentality "what you mean the rest of the world does'nt do business our way" and started creating i/cs made with bare wire, what I should have done is first change the signal wiring in the Bada h/amp to match the new i/cs.
Well on Sunday I did and though I rationally expected to hear an improvement by changing the Kapton wrapped wire for bare wire I was totally unprepared for the huge uplift in quality and also in o/put level.
So to anyone thinking of trying/building new i/cs if you don't change the internal signal wiring to match the i/cs you can have no idea of what your amp/h/amp is capable of.
It really is that dramatic - of course you will need to have a quality amp to start with but even an average amp should show you what is possible.
Sheilding is absolutely essential and by that I mean double sheilding. It could be that once the incoming signal has been amplified it can better resist interference but I decided to use the same double sheilding for these wires as well.
It should cost little to change the signal wiring in your amps and if you don't like it, which can only be because of massive filters in the frontal cortex - you can always replace it.
OK so all is finished now right, well - er- no. I decided that I would like to remove any inter-action that 'may' exist between signal and return so had another look at the LL sat. cable and was pissed off to see that there was no seperation between the braid and foil copper sheilds.
Sod it said I and using copper foil that I had a roll of I soldered a strip from sheilds to Eichman spigot. As usual I blanked my own advice and instead of putting the CDP on repeat and instead of walking away , I sat down to listen - BLOODY NORAH.
So I'm now finished with designing i/cs and have no doubt that it's the end of the road. I shall have to use the Technics SL120, just so I can verify that the design will be a cracker as TT lead out cables and anyway I've had enough of only using CD until I repopulate the Kenwood PCB.
Today I won 2 auctions for Mundorf silver/gold 24AWG wire and for 26AWG UPOCC wire. It could be that they will be better sonically than silver/plated copper - there's only one way to find out - pitch them one against the other.
Because I don't run away from reality checks, before I changed out the signal wiring from the Bada I tried beautiful sexy looking copper i/cs from Xindak and a freebie set that came with the Bada - they are called 'Golden Raincoats'.
The Xindak coppers took me back about 20 years - nothing unpleasant, far from it but where was the detail, WTF happened to the bass all boomy and bloomy.
Up next the GRs - I had forgotten that it was these freebies that had so shocked me over 3 years ago that I had to email the Hong Kong seller to see if he would take the Xindaks back - he would'nt.
The GRs are simply two twisted 24 AWG mil. spec OFC copper conductors wrapped in a yellow tinted poly shroud (they look nice) and fitted with WBT copy plugs and they are only a little behind my last but one design but compared to the final design - they are nowhere.
Change your amp signal and return wires and use at least something like I have suggested and then take a listen - what have you got to lose nothing, except the heavy burden of received wisdom otherwise known as bullshit - I know for some it is impossible - that's their problem - I'm too busy grinning from ear to ear.
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Post by dean0 on Apr 10, 2010 16:54:24 GMT
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Post by stonedowner on May 5, 2010 10:05:41 GMT
Looking to make a Headphone Extension Cable 3.5mm to 1/4 Jack
Where would I get the parts from?
Parts Used; -Yarbo 3.5mm Jack -Neutrik 1/4 Locking Jack -Mogami 2543 Cable -ELECAUDIO Shady Graphite Braiding -Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder
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