Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2009 7:40:12 GMT
dejanm
? ? ? The existing design uses a valve based version of a differential pair . I am unable to follow your reasoning here.
SandyK
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Post by dejanm on Jun 22, 2009 10:26:49 GMT
dejanm ? ? ? The existing design uses a valve based version of a differential pair . I am unable to follow your reasoning here. SandyK Probably you didn't understood what I was trying to say ... and I made a mistake: not grids but heaters. Sorry for this ... At the moment the heaters of ecc88 are in serial, dividing the voltage of aprox. 12,6 V, non-regulated DC. That is where I see place for improvement ...
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 22, 2009 11:49:59 GMT
Adding more capacitance in the filtering part will not heart if the transformer is correspondigly sized. In your case it is ... But if you want to get the real improvement in the sound, the whole PSU part should be redesigned and put in a separate box. Putting a choke in a main filter would be certainly a very good idea. Implementing reg for main supply and especially current reg for tubes would be another very good idea. These regs should be something better than already implemented one in the MF unit. It woulld be also good to separate PSU for tubes from rest of the circuit - different transformers. At the moment the grids are connected in series - it would be better to have them in parallel - maybe completely separated one from each other. etc. etc. This means not only to implement the PSU in an external box but also to do some changes in the unit itself: to remove nearly completely the upper PCB; to change a bit the main PCB .... Having that in mind, it is probably better to do it everything from scratch anyway. But then - it wouldn't be an upgrade anymore and the cost would be much higher. On the other hand, the design of V2 unit has a lot of potential and I wonder how it would sing in this "Ferrari" version ... The alternative is to go "middle-of-the-road" way. One possibility would be to redesign the upper PCB by putting some of these ideas on this new PCB. It will have though to have the same inputs and outputs, in order to keep the costs under control. That would be perhaps very interesting thing to do. The customers would buy only the upper PCB (as a kit or already ensambled) and they will have only to replace it at home. Only an idea ... Bloody hell man, that's more of a "re-design" than a tweak..... I'd prefer to keep the insides in the same enclosure, after all it's a beautiful looking amp and TRULY "original"
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Post by dejanm on Jun 22, 2009 12:53:26 GMT
The alternative is to go "middle-of-the-road" way. One possibility would be to redesign the upper PCB by putting some of these ideas on this new PCB. It will have though to have the same inputs and outputs, in order to keep the costs under control. That would be perhaps very interesting thing to do. The customers would buy only the upper PCB (as a kit or already ensambled) and they will have only to replace it at home. Only an idea ... Pink that is true ... But what about this ... ?
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Post by krisno on Jun 22, 2009 16:32:59 GMT
This X-can V2 Mike is just what I need. This NOS DAC is dark, and the Jupiter's does not bright it up. The Shanling PH100 amp is also dark, it is a little too much, though not bad. But the V2 is a bit brighter, atleast the other one was, and that will make it a good match this time.
It will be great, and the Shanling PH100 really is a room heater.....
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 22, 2009 19:25:16 GMT
This X-can V2 Mike is just what I need. This NOS DAC is dark, and the Jupiter's does not bright it up. The Shanling PH100 amp is also dark, it is a little too much, though not bad. But the V2 is a bit brighter, atleast the other one was, and that will make it a good match this time. It will be great, and the Shanling PH100 really is a room heater..... Kris, Unless my hearing is playing tricks this V2 certainly cannot be described as "bright"... it's pretty neutral / well balanced across the range... anyways, you'll hear it soon enough
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 22, 2009 20:17:02 GMT
If anyone's interested I have 7 "as new" X-Can V2's in my armoury and am willing to mod them up..... PM me if interested. My work will come with a 5 year guarantee.
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Post by krisno on Jun 22, 2009 22:03:10 GMT
OK.. anyways the shangling is dark, and a bit narrow soundstage.... the soundstage of that australian Burson was really amazing. It really was a good amp... but a bit too big.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 26, 2009 21:49:32 GMT
If anyone's interested I have 7 "as new" X-Can V2's in my armoury and am willing to mod them up..... PM me if interested. My work will come with a 5 year guarantee. The V2's are all MINT condition and would sell @ £130 each as they are (without mods) The mods will cost £120 fitted (all caps / ultrafast diodes / pair of matched vintage 6N23P valves / ALPS potentiometer / Quad phono socket / purple LED / Jalco headphone socket etc...) So, for a fully modded MINT X-Can V2 it would be £250 GBP + £15 GBP shipping = £265 GBP The Pinkie would be £100 GBP.
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Post by krisno on Jul 6, 2009 16:54:26 GMT
Hi
The mike modded V2 just arrived. The packaging make, extremly nicely done. That english flag sticker on the bottom of the V2 plastic packing, nice detail. Hehe.... the last UK manufactured product? That is the problem of the western world, we have no production.
The V2 has been running for 20minutes. It is great. Not really much to say, it's no brigthness or edgyness. It is sweeter than the Shanling P100 discrete it just replaced. With the jupiter caps on the dac, this is a highly realistic combination. But I am going to change I/V resistor on the DAC (got some takman metal film here), and I might remove the jupiters and go back to the obbligato's. The obbligato's had a bit more bass, and it might be a tad too soft with tubes on the jupiter beeswax.
But the V2 is in great shape. I cannot see any marks on it and it sounds great! I will never buy another tube amp and this is a keeper.
Great work my friend! Maybe some day we can try some really expensive tubes in it if it's worth it.
Kris
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Post by krisno on Jul 7, 2009 19:24:13 GMT
I put the obbligato's back inn, and changed the I/V resistor with TAKMAN 330R ... amazing what difference a single I/V resistor can do.
For those won don't know, the TDA 1543 chips ouput in high current and very low voltage, and the I/V resistor converts the high current and low voltage to low current and higher voltage..
Well, the V2 modded is amazing... it is the best tube amp ever heard. Really wonder if it's tube in it, it's best I ever heard and crystal clear. CRYSTAL!
I really have to put the jupiter's back in just to see how it works with the new resistor. amazing...
K
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 11, 2009 19:44:26 GMT
I put the obbligato's back inn, and changed the I/V resistor with TAKMAN 330R ... amazing what difference a single I/V resistor can do. For those won don't know, the TDA 1543 chips ouput in high current and very low voltage, and the I/V resistor converts the high current and low voltage to low current and higher voltage.. Well, the V2 modded is amazing... it is the best tube amp ever heard. Really wonder if it's tube in it, it's best I ever heard and crystal clear. CRYSTAL! I really have to put the jupiter's back in just to see how it works with the new resistor. amazing... K Hi Kristian, Glad you like it mate, sorry I didn't reply sooner but I have been over on the Orkney Islands for a few days. One word of caution....... the sound will get BETTER with time, I put around 72 hours on her but give her around 200 - 500hrs to really blossom..... if you think it's good now then it will blow your mind soon. Any signs of the harshness you were experiencing with the other V2? Mike.
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Post by krisno on Jul 12, 2009 16:34:26 GMT
I am now running the dac with jupiter cap's. The sound from them might be a bit too soft, but extremly realistic. NO SHARPNESS / EDGYNESS at all, so its not the amp, but with the obbligato's, the sharpness is there, but it's the dac, not the amp !
The amp is the best tube amp I have ever heard...... so you are right! Honestly, best I've ever heard!!
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 12, 2009 21:23:20 GMT
The amp is the best tube amp I have ever heard...... so you are right! Honestly, best I've ever heard!! Now that you are satisfied with it you could start experimenting with different flavours of valves Kristian and these don't have to be "expensive" valves either (as the 6H23N have proven).... just make sure the valves you do buy are GENUINE NOS / Never used / never seen the light of day like the 1969 vintage 6H23P in your v2. You wouldn't believe the amount of crap that people sell as "NOS" with quite a lot of the valves being pulls (ie: valves that have been pulled out of old equipment) and are as "new" as a third hand car. I'll send you over a pair of chrome pinned 6N1P-EB in a few weeks (give you time to get used to the flavour of the 6H23N) these are in sealed cartons and as fresh as a daisy.... let me know what you think of them Something else you may like to try, get hold of a block of foam (the stuff they use to stuff chairs with) and mount the v2 on top of it...... a friend of mine, Shaun from highendaudio www.highendaudio.co.uk/, demos all his valve amps on a block of foam and it DOES make one helluva difference, albeit a subtle one, worth a go and a very cheap tweak Enjoy the music!
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 12, 2009 21:52:28 GMT
I have been using old computer mouse pads under my tube amps for vibration control. Yes, good idea mate.... try stacking 5 or 6 and see if you hear any improvement
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Post by krisno on Jul 15, 2009 19:36:39 GMT
Very kind Mike!
But 6N1P-EB vs 6h23n , what would be the difference?? Aren't these the same almost?? hehe
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 15, 2009 21:38:35 GMT
Very kind Mike! But 6N1P-EB vs 6h23n , what would be the difference?? Aren't these the same almost?? hehe The 6N1P draws double the heater current of a 6H23N / 6922 / E88CC the "EB" part denotes it is military specification (long life) the 6N1P-EB also comes with chromed pins. Some prefer the sound of the 6N1P others prefer the 6H23N.... all a matter of taste Kristian but I'd like you to try both
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pjc68
Been here a while!
You dissin me?
Posts: 721
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Post by pjc68 on Jul 15, 2009 23:48:43 GMT
Hi everyone As regards to putting foam or any man made material under your hifi equipment, i would think twice about this. Issac newton said "energy can not be created or destroyed", so foam and rubber and the likes will store the vibration in your v2. you need to dump the energy away, the way to do this is to place 3 oak cones upside down under your v2, or the right way up under normal shaped hifi. I have a set under my xlps and v2 hf amp, putting rubber and the likes has the habit of making the sound balance forward, (in yer face ), also glass and metal is a no no too, as this also in yer face and also smears timing and musicality, making for a fatiguing l listen. I would use wood based material as this has a widerband Q resonance, man made material has a narrow Q resonance, this is known as a anomoley ( hope i have spelt that right), your ears are very sensitive to these. Here is a link to the oak cones. www.russandrews.com/category.asp?src=google&lookup=1®ion=UK¤cy=GBP&cat_id=psuppfeet&customer_id=PAA1606077109041GBDSQJTVKHXHPZXB regards pjc68
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2009 0:12:01 GMT
You could try fitting valve dampeners, as this is the area most susceptible to this kind of problem in valve amplifiers. You could also try mounting PCBs using small rubber grommets, to further reduce the effects of vibration. SandyK P.S. You could also sit it on a piece of the attached product from Jaycar,and most likely ,many other suppliers, which has it's main use in car noise deadening.
Improved Heavy Duty Sound Barrier Absorbing / Damping Material Here's an improvement on the AX-3682 felt backed material which has proved to be very popular over the years. This new heavier product, which is 4.5kg/m2 loaded with Barium mineral has a 4mm sheet of dense foam rubber bounded to the heavy sheet. The foam rubber has similar sound-deadening qualities compared to the old felt version but will not rot when damp, making it ideal to laid under carpets, between door trims and car doors, etc. The noise attenuation rating is now STC 27 whereas the previous material was STC 26+ (as measured by National Acoustic Labs, Sydney). It can be cut and mounted in similar fashion to the AX-3682 product. * Sheet size 675 x 330 x 6mm thick (approx). * Sound transmission class: 27 * Humidity: Unaffected * Stability: Indefinite * Supplied in a polythene bag
Tested to Australian Standards: -AS2755.1: 1985 ignitability -AS1530.3: 1989 Early Fire Hazard -AS1191: 1985 Airborne Noise Transmission -AS8123: Quality Control Program -AS1276: 1276 Sound Transmission Class
Frequency(Hz) TRANSMISSION LOSS (dB) 100 17.1 125 15.7 160 17.0 200 17.5 250 17.8 315 19.8 400 21.0 500 22.0 630 23.1 800 24.5 1000 26.5 1250 28.2 1600 29.9 2000 31.6 2500 33.4 3150 35.3 4000 37.0 5000 38.6 QTY 1+ $18.95 5+ $16.95 10+ $14.95
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Post by krisno on Sept 1, 2009 13:15:50 GMT
My friends... hello
I have been using this super x-can for a while. It is great and fairly neutral. It still might keep a tad of the harshness at the top-end atleast with these tubes. But to get the most out of this little bugger, if money within reasons is no issue, what mates best with the V2?
Just to be said the Telefunken diamondbottom are too expensive. But are there other great tubes out there which kinda cures the last bit of 'harsh' on the top-end and gives even more details and separation ??
How are you all doing these days btw.
K
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 1, 2009 13:36:54 GMT
Hi everyone As regards to putting foam or any man made material under your hifi equipment, i would think twice about this. Issac newton said "energy can not be created or destroyed", so foam and rubber and the likes will store the vibration in your v2. you need to dump the energy away, the way to do this is to place 3 oak cones upside down under your v2, or the right way up under normal shaped hifi. I have a set under my xlps and v2 hf amp, putting rubber and the likes has the habit of making the sound balance forward, (in yer face ), also glass and metal is a no no too, as this also in yer face and also smears timing and musicality, making for a fatiguing l listen. I would use wood based material as this has a widerband Q resonance, man made material has a narrow Q resonance, this is known as a anomoley ( hope i have spelt that right), your ears are very sensitive to these. Here is a link to the oak cones. www.russandrews.com/category.asp?src=google&lookup=1®ion=UK¤cy=GBP&cat_id=psuppfeet&customer_id=PAA1606077109041GBDSQJTVKHXHPZXB regards pjc68 I'm not sure that Isaac Newton owned and X-can ;D To my ears a good dense foam block (the stuff they stuff chairs with) improves SQ so I'll have to disagree with Isaac Newton on this one Oak cones are fine and dandy but just "how" would you go about fitting them to a cylindrical X-Can?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 1, 2009 13:38:50 GMT
My friends... hello I have been using this super x-can for a while. It is great and fairly neutral. It still might keep a tad of the harshness at the top-end atleast with these tubes. But to get the most out of this little bugger, if money within reasons is no issue, what mates best with the V2? Just to be said the Telefunken diamondbottom are too expensive. But are there other great tubes out there which kinda cures the last bit of 'harsh' on the top-end and gives even more details and separation ?? How are you all doing these days btw. K Mullard E88CC.... nice and warm, they will definitely tame the top end Good to see you back by the way
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Post by krisno on Sept 4, 2009 13:31:50 GMT
But where can I get NOS Mullard E88CC 's for a 'normal' price?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 4, 2009 22:20:26 GMT
But where can I get NOS Mullard E88CC 's for a 'normal' price? ebay? watch out for fakes though Kris.... I used to get them for people but my supplier started sending me VERY fresh looking examples that sounded like turd, they were fakes.... so I stopped selling them. You're NEVER going to get perfection with any amp, there will always be a compromise and I think you'd be better off matching a good pair of headphones to an amp than trying to change the amp's characteristics. The vintage 6H23N you have are BASTARD good valves and utilise the same frames as the "EB" variants (very early 1960's / early 70's 6H23N all used EB frames)..... those 1969 jobs I fitted are EXTREMELY rare and, IMO, far superior to Mullards sonically. If you want to rose tint the treble then the Mullards are a good bet, I would personally try another pair of 'phones.
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Post by krisno on Sept 5, 2009 13:05:18 GMT
You are probably right.... the phones is probably the source of all evils...
I am going to get this Asus Xonar ST soundcard.... to get the DAC properly done. But the card also comes with a built in headphone amp whcih according to the hifi guys matches with the AKG better than the hungarian amp which I have forgot the name on.... a "one in one solution"....
But the V2 is a keeper and I might be able to try them with some Ultrasone 9 ed.
K
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