(AK) classA HA/Preamplifier.

[Deleted]

Feb 10, 2011 17:57:45 GMT jonclancy said:

Hi Shaun,

Agreed about the 0.1% emitter resistors. I have some (somewhere) in my bombsite room that Will sent me. I'll have more of a rummage around, as I have cleared up the desk and have the PCBs cleaned and ready to start stuffing!!

We were thinking about doing something a bit trick for the feedback resistors. Z Foils have been mooted. but 10K might be a bit on the pricey side.

Good luck with the damping - I'll be interested to hear how you get on. I might just have to get one of those Valab steppers to validate my own comparisons here!

Cheers

Jon

Hi Jon

The Z foils are pricey but I've heard good things about them. i have used the standard Vishay box type foils and liked what they did. ssooo quiet to. I'd love to try some of those Z jobbies for the 220r inputs as i think they may have a larger impact there but i may be wrong.

you got me at it with the Velab. yup the damping did change the volume changing pops into a quieter thuump which was nice). but of naturally no change to the sound which is still breath taking.

however fiddling with the Velab just brought back memories of the Elma switches I've used. so I've bitten the bullet and ordered a DACT.

the HA deserves a treat for providing such a great sound

So thanks for nothing Joh (if only I'd not gone back to the box) Seriously though the blue tack did help the feel of the switch.

I'll wait and see if the money was well spent.

take care

[Will]

i used 0.1 for the 100r and 150r emitter resistors but i can't comment any change in sound as i used them from the start. I'm pretty sure that the technical reasons for using them in that location are sound and make sense.

Yep, it's the tech'y reason that makes the amp sound so good. If those emitter resistors weren't as tightly matched, it wouldn't sound so good.

[Will]

A post with lots of information.

I'll put all the helpful diagrams, schematics, and helpful stuff in this post, and include a link in my signature. This way, it'll be easier to find all the stuff you need when building it.

If you see something that you think should be included, please let me know, and I'll add it in.

UPDATED 26/04/2011

Circuit Diagrams.





PCB Layout, including component values.





Fault Finding Guide



Pin out of the LS devices



When using the BC550C and BC560C for testing purposes, do not forget that the pin out is different to that of the LS devices.

Easy diode orientation.



Adjusting the output voltages of the Jaycar KC5418 dual voltage regulators.

Using 120 ohms and 1.8Kohm 1% MF resistors for the voltage setting resistors will give very close to +-20V into the Current limited JLH,
which will drop a few hundred millivolts. If 130 ohms and 2.0K ohm 1% MF are used instead, there will be approx. 20.45V into the JLH, and a little over +-20V out.
I intend changing to 130 ohm and 2.0Kohm. This will still give a more than adequate IN/OUT voltage difference of approximately 5v. (The regulation dropout voltage of the LM317/LM337 is around 2V.)

Build Tips

Match everything!

If your output transistors (sa1930/sc5171, which should be similar values) are in the lower range of their gain (say below 200), then it helps if T9/T10 (327/337) are in the upper part of there range (between 250-400 for example) Don't get to hung up on this, it's just a guideline.

Conversely, I would guess that you can get away with lower hFE T9/T10 (160-250) if your Toshibas are in the higher range (200-320) At the middle point, use the force for guidance.

When mounting the output devices, It's a good idea to fit them to the heatsinks before you solder them. Don't forget thermal paste or similar. You don't have to electrically isolate the devices form the the sinks, as the heatsinks are not connected to earth or similar.

If using a 50K potentiometer/attenuator, then a small improvement will be obtained by replacing the 100pF capacitor at the input with 47pF. If using a 20-25K potentiometer/attenuator, then leave as 100pF.

The 68 ohm output resistors will work well with most headphones,
but if your main headphones are designed to work with a 120 ohm source, then fit 120 ohms instead. It is best to fit PCB pins at that location to facilitate changes if you change headphones to a different type in normal use.The AKG K701 and Audio Technica W1000, sound more balanced when using 120 ohm output resistors. (But see what suits )
A link should be fitted where marked as an "earth lift"
(A 10 ohm resistor is fitted there for the 15W Class A amplifier only)

The 8 10R resistors should be mounted a few mm off the pcb, as they could get warm.

Setup

Adjust R17 - Bias so that you get 250mV, when measuring mV across the resistors R23-R30 (choose one) Set this and let it cook. 250mV across the 2R5 (10R/4) gives 100mA bias current.

Check for dc on the output. Place a 2k7 or 3k3 resistor to the signal input terminals, and using a DMM set to mV, see what voltage is on the output. You should have less than 10mV. If it's much higher than 10mV (say 50mV or more) then there is a problem that needs fixing.

The third part is to balance the front end (bottom left) It's important to ensure that the amp is up to temperature for this. Measure mV across TP1 and TP2, and adjust R10 - LTP to as close as 0mV as possible. When setting this myself, I set it, waited 1/2 hour, tweaked and then checked after 1/2 hour. Repeat until the measurement remains at 0mV, and no longer drifts. This is with the amp cased up.



Fine Tuning

If anybody is feeling adventurous, and they have a function generator that can output decent square waves at greater than 20KHZ and a CRO, they could experiment by reducing the value of the 68pf polystyrene compensation capacitor to 56 pf or even 47pf. You could also use a Silver Mica type there.Just ensure that there is no waveform overshoot (spikes) with a lower value.

Change to the original build!

Fit SF11 or SF12 diodes instead of the 1N5819 schottky diodes, and replace the 82 ohms (R18) resistors with 120 ohms.

The reason why is explained in the following excellent post by Alex, LTP thermal drift supremo! The technical bit

[jonclancy]

Now that is a great post!! Thanks Will!!

[Deleted]

Now that is a great post!! Thanks Will!!

Thanks from me too, also to Alex for his info. Without this stuff I would never make a start.

My boards and other bits arrived today, thanks Will. The quality is fantastic.

Syd

[XTRProf]

Feb 10, 2011 18:25:15 GMT @shaun said:

so I've bitten the bullet and ordered a DACT.

Huh, you going for a series resistor pot instead of a ladder pot? Any reason for that? Thanks.

[XTRProf]

Feb 10, 2011 20:05:51 GMT Will said:

A post with lots of information.

I'll put all the helpful diagrams, schematics, and helpful stuff in this post, and include a link in my signature. This way, it'll be easier to find all the stuff you need when building it.

If you see something that you think should be included, please let me know, and I'll add it in.

Circuit Diagrams.





PCB Layout, including component values.





Pin out of the LS devices



When using the BC550C and BC560C for testing purposes, do not forget that the pin out is different to that of the LS devices.

Easy diode orientation.



Adjusting the output voltages of the Jaycar KC5418 dual voltage regulators.

Using 120 ohms and 1.8Kohm 1% MF resistors for the voltage setting resistors will give very close to +-20V into the Current limited JLH,
which will drop a few hundred millivolts. If 130 ohms and 2.0K ohm 1% MF are used instead, there will be approx. 20.45V into the JLH, and a little over +-20V out.
I intend changing to 130 ohm and 2.0Kohm. This will still give a more than adequate IN/OUT voltage difference of approximately 5v. (The regulation dropout voltage of the LM317/LM337 is around 2V.)

Build Tips

Match everything!

If your output transistors (sa1930/sc5171, which should be similar values) are in the lower range of their gain (say below 200), then it helps if T9/T10 (327/337) are in the upper part of there range (between 250-400 for example) Don't get to hung up on this, it's just a guideline.

Conversely, I would guess that you can get away with lower hFE T9/T10 (160-250) if your Toshibas are in the higher range (200-320) At the middle point, use the force for guidance.

If using a 50K potentiometer/attenuator, then a small improvement will be obtained by replacing the 100pF capacitor at the input with 47pF. If using a 20-25K potentiometer/attenuator, then leave as 100pF.
The 68 ohm output resistors will work well with most headphones,
but if your main headphones are designed to work with a 120 ohm source, then fit 120 ohms instead. It is best to fit PCB pins at that location to facilitate changes if you change headphones to a different type in normal use.The AKG K701 and Audio Technica W1000, sound more balanced when using 120 ohm output resistors. (But see what suits )
A link should be fitted where marked as an "earth lift"
(A 10 ohm resistor is fitted there for the 15W Class A amplifier only)

Setup



Adjust R17 - Bias so that you get 250mV, when measuring mV across the resistors R23-R30 (choose one) Set this and let it cook. 250mV across the 2R5 (10R/4) gives 100mA bias current.

Check for dc on the output. Place a 2k7 or 3k3 resistor to the signal input terminals, and using a DMM set to mV, see what voltage is on the output. You should have less than 10mV. If it's much higher than 10mV (say 50mV or more) then there is a problem that needs fixing.

The third part is to balance the front end (bottom left) It's important to ensure that the amp is up to temperature for this. Measure mV across TP1 and TP2, and adjust R10 - LTP to as close as 0mV as possible. When setting this myself, I set it, waited 1/2 hour, tweaked and then checked after 1/2 hour. Repeat until the measurement remains at 0mV, and no longer drifts. This is with the amp cased up.



Fine Tuning

If anybody is feeling adventurous, and they have a function generator that can output decent square waves at greater than 20KHZ and a CRO, they could experiment by reducing the value of the 68pf polystyrene compensation capacitor to 56 pf or even 47pf. You could also use a Silver Mica type there.Just ensure that there is no waveform overshoot (spikes) with a lower value.

An excellent post with lots of helping "hands" there, Will!

[Deleted]

Huh, you going for a series resistor pot instead of a ladder pot? Any reason for that? Thanks.

Chong
I will help Shaun with this one. Shaun will undoubtedly have other reasons as well.The attached explanation is from Goldpoint .

Goldpoint Level Controls used to offer Ladder and Shunt type stepped attenuators too. The fact is that with the very low noise, 0.1%, thin film resistors we are now using, we believe that there is no real advantage to Ladders and Shunts - and so have ceased offering them.

[Will]

Another way to approach the stepped attenuator approach is to fit one, and then find the range in which you normally listen. Then replace the resistors in this position with 'posh' or 'technically superior' (you decide the spec.) resistors at this position.

[Will]

My boards and other bits arrived today, thanks Will. The quality is fantastic.

Hi Syd,

A bit better than those etched ones, eh?

If you still have some of those Will's Dual PSU's, they'll do the job nicely for power.


Thanks for the appreciation of the help post, Guys. As always, it was Alex's idea, I just got in there first!

I've updated it again this morning.

[XTRProf]

Feb 11, 2011 7:34:29 GMT Will said:

Another way to approach the stepped attenuator approach is to fit one, and then find the range in which you normally listen. Then replace the resistors in this position with 'posh' or 'technically superior' (you decide the spec.) resistors at this position.

I had thought about that many years back for my preamp but refrain as certain music needs to be listened loud and certain at lower level. Also, it also depends on mood of the day. Agressive or lazy mood. Furthermore, time of the day will also makes one listen at different level. Like at night, due to the quietness, listening at lower volume will be better than listening at high volume, no matter what the music, mood and whether listening thru HP or speakers. It's very hard to explain properly here but I'm sure you guys know what I mean.

[XTRProf]

Feb 11, 2011 4:31:20 GMT @sandyk said:

Huh, you going for a series resistor pot instead of a ladder pot? Any reason for that? Thanks.

Chong
I will help Shaun with this one. Shaun will undoubtedly have other reasons as well.The attached explanation is from Goldpoint .

Goldpoint Level Controls used to offer Ladder and Shunt type stepped attenuators too. The fact is that with the very low noise, 0.1%, thin film resistors we are now using, we believe that there is no real advantage to Ladders and Shunts - and so have ceased offering them.

Btw, which do you prefer? DACT, Elma or Goldpoint pots?

[Deleted]

Btw, which do you prefer? DACT, Elma or Goldpoint pots?

I haven't tried the Elma or Goldpoint attenuators.
I use a DACT2 in my Class A preamp though.

[Deleted]

Feb 11, 2011 3:34:45 GMT XTRProf said:

Feb 10, 2011 18:25:15 GMT @shaun said:

so I've bitten the bullet and ordered a DACT.

Huh, you going for a series resistor pot instead of a ladder pot? Any reason for that? Thanks.

Hi Mr Chong

no reason other than I've not tried a DACT and am interested in hearing one for myself. Also i don't like splashing the cash on something until I'm sure it's merited which in this case it most definitely is and it will make a superb valentines gift for the wife (she's going to be thrilled

I've ordered a DA CT2 which looks like an Elma switch to me which i have used before with my TV and liked. they just have a lovely action and are pretty bomb proof construction wise. a pretty good price to from that Eba seller who is going to post it all for less than the price of the UK vendor who then adds VAT and P.P. Is the DA CT going to sound four times better than the Vela? i suspect not but it will be interesting to find out.

£91.00 all up from Eba which is still much cash but i don't intend on building another HA or Pre so why not have something built to last.

so no big tech no baa just curiosity, ;D

I'll put the DA CT in the HA and move the Vela to the Pre and do some comparing.

i must say that the Vela stepper is fantastic value for money and I'm not thinking of replacing it on the grounds of sound. it will be interesting to hear the difference if any but i suspect that the most obvious thing will be ergonomic. let's find out.


one question

I've used some screened silver on copper PT FE for the signal wiring. is there any reason to not use unscreened wires for the input? I'd like to try some solid silver stuff i have.

please no comments on cable sounds it really has been flogged to death., my ears do hear a difference and even more so with the Class.

i must stay up a little later sometime it's been nice

nice hearing from you


Will thats a great post.

take care

[Deleted]

is there any reason to not use unscreened wires for the input? I'd like to try some solid silver stuff i have.

Shaun
I would only use twisted wire leads for short distances.
Alex
P.S.
The major improvement with a DACT2 over the cheaper attenuators, which BTW, have improved markedly in recent years, is the very smooth action in comparison with the clunky action of most of the alternatives.

[Deleted]

Feb 11, 2011 10:32:26 GMT @sandyk said:

is there any reason to not use unscreened wires for the input? I'd like to try some solid silver stuff i have.

Shaun
I would only use twisted wire leads for short distances.
Alex
P.S.
The major improvement with a DACT2 over the cheaper attenuators, which BTW, have improved markedly in recent years, is the very smooth action in comparison with the clunky action of most of the alternatives.

Hi Alex

thanks for the wire info

i was thinking of a twisted triple one hot two cold in solid core PTFE silver. i may give it a try in the pre just to see what that does. I'm using the same stuff as IC's and like it very much.

on the DACT2

Yes that's what I'm expecting. the Elma has such a lovely action and just feels nice to use. I've also used seidon switches which are also nice but i prefer the Elma.

it's just the rolls Royce of switches and as you say great to use.

the Velab is just great value for money and sounds way better than it should for the price. the Velab is one of those products that comes along very rarely that offers great performance at a more than fair price. good on them I've been impressed with their switcher and the service from them is faultless.just over a week for my order to arrive in a well padded box.

so interesting to find out what the story is.

i hope things have cooled down in Sydney. i really found out the meaning of the word HOT when i was there. ;D

time for some toast and coffee

take care

[Deleted]

i was thinking of a twisted triple one hot two cold in solid core PTFE silver. i may give it a try in the pre just to see what that does. I'm using the same stuff as IC's and like it very much.

Shaun
Unlike most valve amplifiers, especially when you are already using an attenuator which permits extended frequency response in comparison with a normal volume control,using silver wire input leads may exaggerate upper HF a little.
Alex

[Deleted]

Feb 11, 2011 11:16:10 GMT @sandyk said:

i was thinking of a twisted triple one hot two cold in solid core PTFE silver. i may give it a try in the pre just to see what that does. I'm using the same stuff as IC's and like it very much.

Shaun
Unlike most valve amplifiers, especially when you are already using an attenuator which permits extended frequency response in comparison with a normal volume control,using silver wire input leads may exaggerate upper HF a little.
Alex

Hi Alex

Point taken with the silver and yes I've only used the silver stuff with tubes. however IMHO in my system the solid core stuff does get past most of the down sides and sounds pretty good with the HA. i did try some PTFE stranded screened silver on copper but to me it sounded thiner and less involving. (go figure that one out). strange.

I'm twisted solid core (or as my wife would say ''just twisted'') for my interconnects and may try looking for some nice copper just to compare but at the moment the silvers (mundorf gold on silver DIY stuff) has it for me.sound just great.

even digital cables between Squeezebox and DAC

i was using 1/2m trichord expensive stuff and if you remember i said that i had a very slight hiss with my (our) HA. well changed the cable for some longer 1 1/2m cheaper profigold and no hiss. the profigold IMHO sounds more relaxed and neutral (again go figure that one). i do remember reading on DIYAUDIO Shingaclone thread that longer is better for digital cables so maybe thats it.

the thing that I've noticed with the HA is how easily it shows up the differences between cables and front ends. so no harm in trying.

I'm listening mostly to digital at the moment as i find the extra volume and channel separation just makes even my lowly 16 bit Flac files sound like a million $.

i was listening to Melody Gardot live in Paris Flac last night and it was just like being there, delicious.

out of interest i tried the following CD players:

re clocked Marantz CD17 KIS
Musical Fidelity Xray
PIoneer Stable platter job as a transport into CA DACmagic

bit's maybe but the difference in presentation between players was very very obvious.

so I'm getting really interested in upping my digital front end but computers and me are strangers so i need to read up on that.

were jusssst so happy (yes the wife too) with the HA so thanks again.

mmmm that coffee was great

take care

[jonclancy]

Feb 10, 2011 18:25:15 GMT @shaun said:

you got me at it with the Velab. yup the damping did change the volume changing pops into a quieter thuump which was nice). but of naturally no change to the sound which is still breath taking.

however fiddling with the Velab just brought back memories of the Elma switches I've used. so I've bitten the bullet and ordered a DACT.

the HA deserves a treat for providing such a great sound

So thanks for nothing Joh (if only I'd not gone back to the box) Seriously though the blue tack did help the feel of the switch.

I'll wait and see if the money was well spent.

take care

Always a pleasure to see someone empty their wallet for a good cause!!!

I think you'll enjoy that attenuator! Please let me know if the Valab is anywhere near to the performance, as I think I'll be picking one of these up soon.

BTW, edited to add that I often use single strand pure silver (4 or 5 nines, can't remember which) in teflon sleeving, loosely twisted for input. On my MyrefC amp, I have also used solid silver wire at around 4mm diameter for output, as I had a bit knocking around for another project. I got the thin stuff from Brian at DIYHiFiSupply and the thick stuff from Oyaide.

Cheers

Jon

[Deleted]

Feb 11, 2011 17:59:50 GMT jonclancy said:

Feb 10, 2011 18:25:15 GMT @shaun said:

you got me at it with the Velab. yup the damping did change the volume changing pops into a quieter thuump which was nice). but of naturally no change to the sound which is still breath taking.

however fiddling with the Velab just brought back memories of the Elma switches I've used. so I've bitten the bullet and ordered a DACT.

the HA deserves a treat for providing such a great sound

So thanks for nothing Joh (if only I'd not gone back to the box) Seriously though the blue tack did help the feel of the switch.

I'll wait and see if the money was well spent.

take care

Always a pleasure to see someone empty their wallet for a good cause!!!

I think you'll enjoy that attenuator! Please let me know if the Valab is anywhere near to the performance, as I think I'll be picking one of these up soon.

BTW, edited to add that I often use single strand pure silver (4 or 5 nines, can't remember which) in teflon sleeving, loosely twisted for input. On my MyrefC amp, I have also used solid silver wire at around 4mm diameter for output, as I had a bit knocking around for another project. I got the thin stuff from Brian at DIYHiFiSupply and the thick stuff from Oyaide.

Cheers

Jon

Hi Jon

thanks again

TBH i'm not expecting a great deal of improvement sound wise from the DACT just a bit more of the silky switch action.

it will be interesting to find out what the story is on that though.

i will most definitely report back but as I've said the Velab is a good unit and great value for $£. it's not to often that something comes up thats good and pretty cheap (a rare beast indeed).

the solid silver i used is the mundorf silver gold stuff from HIFIcollective and also the solid core in PTFE sleeve which is less expensive but still dead good and both make great IC's .

the mundorf stuff looks a bit thin and is fragile to use but sounds just great. (no shares or interests in mundorf or HIFIcollective (yet ))

i guess they are both a little pricey but still good value IMHO.


4mm solid silver mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm yes please


any spare 4mm you have just pop it in the post. I'll make some lovely speaker cables with that so it won't be wasted.

I'm using stranded silver on copper at the moment for my speakers but dream from time to time of the solid silver. i just love it.

Jon my wallet thanks you for your efforts on it's behalf.

take care

[Deleted]

Hi Shaun
Have you worked out how to play those .wav files yet ?
They should sound markedly better again than your present .flac files
Regards
Alex

P.S.
I have a Melody Gardot CD too.

[Deleted]

Feb 11, 2011 20:15:41 GMT @sandyk said:

Hi Shaun
Have you worked out how to play those .wav files yet ?
They should sound markedly better again than your present .flac files
Regards
Alex

P.S.
I have a Melody Gardot CD too.

Hi Alex

how's it going

no progress on the wav files I'm afraid :'(but I'm working on it .

i like the look of Wills Fort Apache commando PC on his thread in computers.

it's just superb (Will you really must try a tube bread board sometime, you're a natural ). now thats my kind of PC and I'm hoping to gently twist his arm into giving advice to a novice who wants one.

As usual I'm way behind but even more interested now I've heard what the ClassA can do with digital. It's just so

The Melody Gardot CD i have came with a live in Paris freebie and it's just stunning. A great voice and with the Class A / K701 it's just like having the best seat in the house.

so don't worry Alex I'm on the case (no pun intended) ;D

take care

[XTRProf]

Feb 11, 2011 11:58:08 GMT @shaun said:

yes I've only used the silver stuff with tubes. however IMHO in my system the solid core stuff does get past most of the down sides and sounds pretty good with the HA. i did try some PTFE stranded screened silver on copper but to me it sounded thiner and less involving. (go figure that one out). strange.

I'm twisted solid core (or as my wife would say ''just twisted'') for my interconnects and may try looking for some nice copper just to compare but at the moment the silvers (mundorf gold on silver DIY stuff) has it for me.sound just great.

even digital cables between Squeezebox and DAC

Ah, I also have those solid core wires but OCC type in PTFE. I use the silver exclusively for TT rewiring which I haven't don't yet for more than a year! Damn it! The OCC copper in Teflon will go into the coming AHA.

For me I prefer screen any time as I can make them directional. I had an expensive Audio Research unscreened IC some time back and sold it as it was just a bit too smooth for my system matching. It went very fast like something Gone In 60 Seconds after advertising. Will be great for those system which is somehwat north of neutral though. I couldn't hear any hum, EMF or RFI though with the unscreened IC.

For digital cable, I have the expensive Oyaide 75 ohms but again have not terminated yet for more than a year already although I have the 75 ohms plugs. Damn it X2!

You and Jon are same as me in this area. Cool, man!

Feb 11, 2011 11:58:08 GMT @shaun said:

i was listening to Melody Gardot live in Paris Flac last night and it was just like being there, delicious.

Yup, pretty good stuffs from her and she has got at least 2 albums out for a gal who had a terrible car accident some years back which almost crippled her. I had highlighted her in one of the music thread some years back here.

Feb 11, 2011 11:58:08 GMT @shaun said:

out of interest i tried the following CD players:

re clocked Marantz CD17 KIS
Musical Fidelity Xray
PIoneer Stable platter job as a transport into CA DACmagic

bit's maybe but the difference in presentation between players was very very obvious.

Curious again, as I was offered the Pioneer Stable Platter transport some years back but didn't take up the offer. How is that compared with the rest of your players?

Feb 11, 2011 11:58:08 GMT @shaun said:

mmmm that coffee was great

Starbuck or Coffee Beans? Or plain old English coffee, btw?

[XTRProf]

Feb 11, 2011 17:59:50 GMT jonclancy said:

On my MyrefC amp, I have also used solid silver wire at around 4mm diameter for output, as I had a bit knocking around for another project.

Wow, 4mm solid core silver? You floored me again! Where did you get it? Care to share?

Great to see you guys biting, should I say the grenade, instead of the bullet to advance the SOTA in diy. Yup, big hole in the pocket instead of the small bullet hole. Heh, heh, heh ............

Fantastic!

[Deleted]

Feb 12, 2011 2:18:54 GMT XTRProf said:

Feb 11, 2011 11:58:08 GMT @shaun said:

yes I've only used the silver stuff with tubes. however IMHO in my system the solid core stuff does get past most of the down sides and sounds pretty good with the HA. i did try some PTFE stranded screened silver on copper but to me it sounded thiner and less involving. (go figure that one out). strange.

I'm twisted solid core (or as my wife would say ''just twisted'') for my interconnects and may try looking for some nice copper just to compare but at the moment the silvers (mundorf gold on silver DIY stuff) has it for me.sound just great.

even digital cables between Squeezebox and DAC

Ah, I also have those solid core wires but OCC type in PTFE. I use the silver exclusively for TT rewiring which I haven't don't yet for more than a year! Damn it! The OCC copper in Teflon will go into the coming AHA.

For me I prefer screen any time as I can make them directional. I had an expensive Audio Research unscreened IC some time back and sold it as it was just a bit too smooth for my system matching. It went very fast like something Gone In 60 Seconds after advertising. Will be great for those system which is somehwat north of neutral though. I couldn't hear any hum, EMF or RFI though with the unscreened IC.

For digital cable, I have the expensive Oyaide 75 ohms but again have not terminated yet for more than a year already although I have the 75 ohms plugs. Damn it X2!

if any of those cables ever get lonely i have a nice home for them

i do like to use unscreened cables where possible and if i must screen i use a twisted pair (good name for a company) and only connect the screen to the sender end of the cable. as for special power cables, i can't hear any difference with those so i don't use them.

You and Jon are same as me in this area. Cool, man!


Welcome to the witch doctors hut Mr Chong come on in there's plenty of room. please excuse the smell of burning feathers
Yup, pretty good stuffs from her and she has got at least 2 albums out for a gal who had a terrible car accident some years back which almost crippled her. I had highlighted her in one of the music thread some years back here.

I first heard Her on the Later with Jools Holland TV show. Her voice just made me stop and listen. lovely

Curious again, as I was offered the Pioneer Stable Platter transport some years back but didn't take up the offer. How is that compared with the rest of your players?

The Pioneer is IMHO my best transport. smooth and detailed. the Marantz is not so good but re clocking it really upped it's quality as a stand alone player. the XRAY I've never really liked that much but keep it as a spare.

Feb 11, 2011 11:58:08 GMT @shaun said:

mmmm that coffee was great

Starbuck or Coffee Beans? Or plain old English coffee, btw?

I'm a one cup a day man so it's got to be the Columbian full roast which has a nice nutty taste with just a hint of citrus.

liquid defibrillator

take care