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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 28, 2007 23:19:50 GMT
is there any reason i shouldn't reconnect the ground if it doesn't cause a loop in my system? (it actually fixed what i thought was a ground related problem only producable between my canamp and my DAC-AH) No reason at all if it's sounding good then go with the flow
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 28, 2007 23:27:28 GMT
I have this list with me, but i'm not sure whether it is suitable or not. (2) Panasonic TSHA Al electrolytic cap,10000uF 35V (2) Elna Silmic II 10uF 25V (2) Elna Silmic II 100uF 25V (4) Rectifier diode,MUR820 8A 200V (4) Rectifier diode,UF4002 1A 100V
I'll solder a dip8 socket that's for sure. However i do not have any knowledge on electronics (i'm an IT undergrad); can anyone answer some of my questions? 1. Does the voltage matters for the 10uF and 100uF caps? I only can get 25V Silmic II though. So may i use these caps? 2. I read through the data sheet and notice the MUR820 has faster response time compare to the UF4002. I wonder why isn't anyone using the MUR820 instead? Never go under with cap voltage rating.... ok to go higher but only up to the next voltage rating (with an electrolytic) Best thing to do is measure the voltage across the existing caps (probe across the pads with your voltmeter set on the DC scale) If it's 26V then go with 35V not 25V if it's less than 25V then go with 25V caps. I can't remember the voltages across the caps my canamp has gone to a new home' The Panasonic caps you refer to are spot on for the job. MUR820 should be fine let us know how you get on with them.
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Post by dc on Apr 29, 2007 7:09:37 GMT
is there any reason i shouldn't reconnect the ground if it doesn't cause a loop in my system? (it actually fixed what i thought was a ground related problem only producable between my canamp and my DAC-AH) No reason at all if it's sounding good then go with the flow thanks pinky! i figured as much, i hate doing DIY stuff but not actually knowing the causes and effects. it's great cos i get better SQ on the cheap but boy is trouble shooting a pain
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Post by yrh0413 on Apr 29, 2007 8:33:00 GMT
I have this list with me, but i'm not sure whether it is suitable or not. (2) Panasonic TSHA Al electrolytic cap,10000uF 35V (2) Elna Silmic II 10uF 25V (2) Elna Silmic II 100uF 25V (4) Rectifier diode,MUR820 8A 200V (4) Rectifier diode,UF4002 1A 100V
I'll solder a dip8 socket that's for sure. However i do not have any knowledge on electronics (i'm an IT undergrad); can anyone answer some of my questions? 1. Does the voltage matters for the 10uF and 100uF caps? I only can get 25V Silmic II though. So may i use these caps? 2. I read through the data sheet and notice the MUR820 has faster response time compare to the UF4002. I wonder why isn't anyone using the MUR820 instead? Never go under with cap voltage rating.... ok to go higher but only up to the next voltage rating (with an electrolytic) Best thing to do is measure the voltage across the existing caps (probe across the pads with your voltmeter set on the DC scale) If it's 26V then go with 35V not 25V if it's less than 25V then go with 25V caps. I can't remember the voltages across the caps my canamp has gone to a new home' The Panasonic caps you refer to are spot on for the job. MUR820 should be fine let us know how you get on with them. thanks!
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Nigel
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Post by Nigel on May 8, 2007 15:07:21 GMT
dc, have you ever investigated the 'ringing' in the top of the enclosure? Take the cover off & tap it with your fingers.
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Post by dc on May 8, 2007 15:22:24 GMT
seems like it was a grounding thing
at the bottom of the board, there are some traces to ground cut, i reconnected them
i also put a 3 prong power chord and it seems to have fixed the problem for me
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Nigel
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Post by Nigel on May 8, 2007 17:56:11 GMT
No, I mean the actual metal case lid. It rings like a bell.
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 8, 2007 20:01:00 GMT
No, I mean the actual metal case lid. It rings like a bell. Stick some bitumen pads on the inside of it Nigel will stop it ringing.
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Nigel
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Post by Nigel on May 8, 2007 23:00:20 GMT
Where do you get that from Mike? Is that the stuff they put on flat roofs? Will it catch fire?
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Post by dc on May 9, 2007 0:53:31 GMT
huh why would you do that? yes, i find that it adds to the musicality of the amp when i use a chop stick and bang it against the case
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 9, 2007 9:06:06 GMT
Where do you get that from Mike? Is that the stuff they put on flat roofs? Will it catch fire? You can get dedshete panels from wilmslow audio (£1.19 each) they should stop the ringing. I very much doubt it will go on fire. secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/catalog/ go to Accessories then acoustic damping materials.
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Sol
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loves motorcycles !
Chief Technical Numpty
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Post by Sol on May 9, 2007 9:39:21 GMT
I bought some bitumin sheet from ebay .... large sheets at 5 quid each - they have not melted even with a hot running X-CAN V3 using EB valves! But that's another story! ONe sheet is sufficent to do top, bottom and sides of two X-components. The sheeting has been used on all my X-components, has added significant weight, and it has definately resulted in a slight benefit ..... improved bass resolution, but seems to have slightly increased the harshness of the highs! I assume this harshness is now apparent because the damping is removing some of the muddyness - and I'm hoping opamp changes will sweeten things off again. YMMV Ebay item 300109828301 stores.ebay.co.uk/MalvernAudioVisual
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2007 10:01:03 GMT
Dedshete should do wonders for some CD/DVD players . I have been using adhesive foam, but this stuff is probably much better. Is dedshete easily removed ? I was thinking along the lines of "what if I had to reverse a couple of mods, if something else went wrong with a DVD player under warranty"
SandyK
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 9, 2007 10:02:15 GMT
That stuff looks even better than Dedshete Sol.... it's 3.5mm thick as opposed to 2mm with dedshete. I used to damp my home made speakers with dedshete, great stuff and certainly makes an audible difference. Here's the ebay stuff
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Sol
100+
loves motorcycles !
Chief Technical Numpty
Posts: 135
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Post by Sol on May 9, 2007 17:28:22 GMT
That stuff looks even better than Dedshete Sol.... it's 3.5mm thick as opposed to 2mm with dedshete. I used to damp my home made speakers with dedshete, great stuff and certainly makes an audible difference. Here's the ebay stuffIt certiainly does the trick ... for the sum total of 2 sheets, 2 floor tiles and2 packs of blue tack - about 15 quid - I've damped all x-component cases, created a stand for the spiked speakers, each individually damped with blue tack between floor and tile. (NOte I have a lamanate floor) It really has brought some changes: - an observed 3-dimensionality to teh sound stage - much more forward to back on both headphones and speakers. The latter even more so.
- reverb trails are more obvious,
- bass resolution is markedly better and lifted off the floor
- unfortunately I'm hearing a little tad harshness to the top end - more so in the headphones.
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Nigel
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Post by Nigel on May 18, 2007 10:27:09 GMT
dc & all,
I've reverted back to using the AD823 opamp for the time being, musical & silky. I do all my serious listening with the enclosure lid removed. I have removed the four hex screws so just replace the lid at the end of each session. I would like to know what current the Heed draws on idle but don't know where to take the multimeter reading from. I wonder if Alpar recommends leaving it powered on 24/7 because after a few days it sure gets hot under that bonnet.
Cheers,
Nigel
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Post by dc on May 19, 2007 17:29:49 GMT
Nigel: hmm probably the only way to know what it draws is at the socket, using a conditioner or device that measures such things, someone correct me if i'm wrong here mine gets pretty hot, but nothing to worrying though, the sprague koolohms did cool it down a bit dan @ blackbird recommends leaving it on, but probably best to ask alpar/zsolt using 2 x AD843s on a browndog at the moment, more resolving than the DY2000 without the rough edges at the top end of the spectrum that is sort of enjoyed. bass i feel is a little tighter the textured bass that the DY2000 exhibited to me in hindsight feels like it was borderline distortion, not sure exactly, but the AD843 is tight and controlled still drop the DY2000 in there occasionally though
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 19, 2007 17:51:08 GMT
Quoted from Tangent will save having to explain it again.......
"A standard amperage meter (ammeter) measures the current flowing through the meter. To measure an amp's current draw, you must break the amp's power supply circuit and use the meter to "heal" the break. The amp's power flows through the meter, and you get a reading.
All meters I've used require you to move the red probe to a dedicated amps measuring jack. Many meters have two such jacks, with different current ratings. Use the higher rated of the two first; switch to the lower one only when you're certain that the current is within its range. If you exceed the current rating of a meter's ammeter jacks, you will either blow an expensive fuse or damage the meter. Trust me, I've done both, and it isn't fun.
With a battery supply, measuring current draw is easy: just disconnect one battery terminal from its connector, and put the meter across the gap.
With a wall supply, things are a little trickier. One way is to desolder one of the wires going between the power supply and the amp, and put the meter across the break. You can also lash an external power supply to the amp with alligator jumpers and the meter."
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Post by daggerlee on May 20, 2007 2:25:32 GMT
Installed polyprops today in all cap positions. Used Wimas for the 100 & 10 nf positions, and Xicons for the 470 positions. Was going to use Sprague Orange Drops for the 470 positions but the lead is actually too thick to fit through the hole Also grounded the input section per dc's suggestion, unfortunately I think its still susceptible to crackling. Maybe I just have bad power here. Anyway it's fine as long as I don't touch it. Tried the DY2000 today, it's nice but the highs are still a bit too shrill for me... Listening right now and it sounds very good. Used it as a preamp for my t-amp, it also souns great in that position as well. Very quiet. Anyway, if anybody has any other suggestions for getting rid of that crackling I'm all ears
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 20, 2007 10:29:39 GMT
Only happens when you touch it? A long shot but may be worth running a ground wire from the chassis of your Heed to the chassis of your CD player.... not sure why I'm suggesting this but give it a go ;D
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Post by yrh0413 on May 22, 2007 3:58:17 GMT
guys, are the 2 small electrolyte caps near the opamps input decoupling caps?
If yes, may i shorten them if my source already has output decoupling caps? And if it is not advisable to shorten them, is there any improvements in SQ if i swap them with better caps?
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Nigel
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Post by Nigel on May 22, 2007 10:40:03 GMT
Are these to do with blocking dc output? If so, I removed a pair in my Chiarra & never noticed any positive improvements in sound quality at all. I know it's a different amp but there you go.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 12, 2007 21:06:16 GMT
Our very own member "dc" kept this one very quiet but the power of the pink came across this cornucopia of secret HEED Canamp pRon at dc's very own website What a stash of under the bonnet Filth...... fantastic find www.a-chau.net/gallery2/v/mambo-articles/canamp/NICE work dc, thanks for sharing
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Post by dc on Jun 13, 2007 4:42:13 GMT
Our very own member "dc" kept this one very quiet but the power of the pink came across this cornucopia of secret HEED Canamp pRon at dc's very own website What a stash of under the bonnet Filth...... fantastic find www.a-chau.net/gallery2/v/mambo-articles/canamp/NICE work dc, thanks for sharing ;D I do what I can
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Post by yrh0413 on Jun 17, 2007 10:51:08 GMT
finally i'm done with my mods: - Panasonic 35V 10000uF - Panasonic FCs 10uF and 100uF - MUR820PBF - opamp socket (using an OPA2107 now) the parts swapping mods seems to yield very mild upgrade on the SQ to my ears. Bass is a little tighter, soundstage is a little wider, everything is just a little better. Tried the LM4562 and it turns my musical setup into a surgery room. The 2107 has much better synergy in my setup. upcoming mods: - replace the 100uF Panasonic FCs with Nichicon KZ - 2x 3.3uF polyester to replace the decoupling caps - track cutting to fit in a regulator board
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