StevieDvd
<100
Superman of Stevenage
Posts: 15
|
Post by StevieDvd on Dec 9, 2004 11:23:04 GMT
A couple of minor questions to open up the diy section:
1. What if any magnifying tools do people use on a regular basis?
2. Who solders then trims the excess leg of components and who trims and then solders. Which do you do and why?
I have a Maplins magnifying light stand but have just seen Rapids offering of a headband/light with changeable lenses.
On the soldering I usually solder and trim but I think others (Pinkie) may do it differently since there soldering is so neat.
PS Hello one and all.
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Dec 9, 2004 16:15:42 GMT
A couple of minor questions to open up the diy section: 1. What if any magnifying tools do people use on a regular basis? I've never used magnifying aids Steve as my eyes have been very good up till now... I've recently being experiencing blurred vision in my left eye so it looks like I will have to purchase some visual aid one of these days 2. Who solders then trims the excess leg of components and who trims and then solders. Which do you do and why? I was originally trained to solder to Canadian "pin witness" standards which basically means the pins stand proud of the pads.... you flood solder onto the joint and then snip off the excess pin (legs) This is fine for maintenance as the component is very easy to desolder and will just drop out of the board... fine for military applications where fast repair times may mean the difference between life and death. My preferred method of soldering is to bend the legs of the component flush with the board and snip the legs at the edge of the pad.... I then hold the tip of the iron on the snipped leg and pad and flood with solder.... it provides a good mechanical connection which is then held in place by the solder but it's a bit more tricky to desolder than the pin witness technique.... it also gives a lovely round dome finish to the joint which also makes for easier cleaning as there are no rough edges to contend with. I have a Maplins magnifying light stand but have just seen Rapids offering of a headband/light with changeable lenses. I'll probably have one too if my eyes get any worse And hello to you also Steve!! welcome to the machine :-) All the best. Mike.
|
|
StevieDvd
<100
Superman of Stevenage
Posts: 15
|
Post by StevieDvd on Dec 9, 2004 18:05:29 GMT
My preferred method of soldering is to bend the legs of the component flush with the board and snip the legs at the edge of the pad.... I then hold the tip of the iron on the snipped leg and pad and flood with solder.... it provides a good mechanical connection which is then held in place by the solder but it's a bit more tricky to desolder than the pin witness technique.... Mike. Ah thought it was something like that as I found the caps on my WNA a little tricky to desolder
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Dec 9, 2004 18:22:22 GMT
A tip.... apply heat to the pads one at a time whilst wiggling the cap out at the same time (touch one pad wiggle, touch the other pad wiggle so on and so forth)... this way you are guaranteed not to lift the pads. With the caps out of the way remove any excess solder on the pads with some desoldering braid. works everytime and you'll never lift a pad once you get the hang of this wiggling and applying heat technique
|
|
|
Post by BK on Dec 11, 2004 12:23:03 GMT
How did you desolder the op-amps to replace the opmaps?
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Dec 11, 2004 14:06:53 GMT
How did you desolder the op-amps to replace the opmaps? Opamps are pretty easy to desolder as long as you're careful. Use some desoldering braid and desolder each pad in turn, the opamp should lift out once all the solder is removed from the pads. Instead of soldering in a new opamp you are better to fit a dip8 socket to the board as this makes it a lot easier to try out a lot of opamps..... no need to solder / desolder as the opamps plug into the dip8 socket
|
|
Alick
<100
The Fife Panther strikes again!
Posts: 41
|
Post by Alick on Dec 11, 2004 17:14:14 GMT
I was taught to bend the component leg slightly to hold it in place, solder then snip. Whatever works for anyone is fine though.
I find the cheap "plunger/sucker" type desoldering tools are quite useful when removing components. Maplin do one for less than a fiver.
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Dec 11, 2004 18:10:13 GMT
yes I do that as well Alick, I bend all 8 legs over and then solder but manufacturers using a jig will usually solder with the pins straight.... I was assuming the guy who asked how to desolder an opamp was working with an opamp without the legs bent over
|
|
|
Post by BK on Dec 21, 2004 16:25:36 GMT
Thank you for the advice. I tried to remove the op-amp with the desoldering braid, but the opamp did not moved. Finally, I cut the legs and removed all the remaining bits. I instaled a socket for quickly changing op-amps. I performed this operation on a Musical Fidelity A324 and changed the opamp from a NE5532 to a OPA2134. Perhaps later a OPA627. BTW, I enjoyed your threads with the Chiarra and the White noise amps very much. I have an upgraded X-can V2 (Panasonic FC's, BG NX caps and Siemens E88CC tubes) but I am considering a WNA with the cascode PSU. Do you think this will be a major improvement? Thanks, Bibi
|
|
Alick
<100
The Fife Panther strikes again!
Posts: 41
|
Post by Alick on Dec 21, 2004 21:25:12 GMT
I was using a slightly upgraded X-Can V2 (stock except for NOS Mullard E88CCs). The WNA is in a different league; it beats the X-Can in every department. It's more detailed, faster, has a better soundstage, better bass depth and detail. I could go on... I'm just using the standard wall-wart but I believe that the cascode improves things, although it's perhaps not the most cost-effective upgrade?
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Dec 22, 2004 13:36:30 GMT
The WNA beats the X-Can V2 hands down by a very large margin indeed.... think speed, think poise, think neutrality, think seperation, think timing, think class..... just about sums the WNA up ;D
|
|