marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on May 20, 2007 10:39:43 GMT
I've just brought one thats missing the power supply. Does anyone know what type I'll need or if I can make one easily. Presume that it's 12V simular to my Xcan supply ? So the question is what voltage and amps do I need. It a cannon plug on the back of the amp ?? thoughts guys ?
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2007 11:13:41 GMT
The Musical Fidelity x-A100R is a 75W/Ch. Integrated Amplifier. I doubt that it runs off an external supply, In the unlikely event that it did , it would probably need somwhere around around + and -40 to 45 V
Over to you Mike. SandyK
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on May 20, 2007 11:36:55 GMT
Yes it does have an external power supply, I'm keen for someone to help with the advice for construction of the supply, I can pull it apart and post some pics and quote the component sizes so we can fiqure out what voltage to use?
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 20, 2007 12:20:38 GMT
I can't find a thing about this on the net or even a hint as to what the PSU type is. Knowing MF it'll just be a toroidal in an enclosure with an AC output, I'll ask the MF technical guy tomorrow for you and see if he can throw any light on it..... if it is just a toroid in an enclosure then making a replacement shouldn't be difficult at all.
I'm not familiar with the XA-100R but can you tell me the type of PSU in connector on the rear? If it's 3 pin then every possibility the external PSU is simply a centre tapped transformer with AC output similar to the X-PSUv3 but obviously will be a much higher VA as the XA-100R is 75W rms per channel (power consumption 400w maximum) I'll see what I can find out.......
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on May 21, 2007 0:32:45 GMT
mike yes its a 3 pin Cannon plug. Your help would be appreciated.
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Post by Deleted on May 21, 2007 1:11:46 GMT
marcm09 Have you had the cover off? If you have, where do the leads from the Canon socket connect to , a square bridge rectifier, or 4 separate diodes ? Does the PCB have any voltages marked on it in that area? SandyK
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on May 21, 2007 5:47:20 GMT
will come back to you when the cover's off, its getting sent to me and is about a week away.
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 21, 2007 22:26:24 GMT
will come back to you when the cover's off, its getting sent to me and is about a week away. I'll be back to you sooner than that Will get the definitive answer tomorrow and will post as soon as I receive it. Mike.
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on May 22, 2007 2:05:51 GMT
thanks mike
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 22, 2007 21:13:37 GMT
Spoke to John Sampson today (used to be service manager with MF) and what a really helpful man he is (I'll be linking to him in another thread shortly) OK.... on with the PSU.... I was correct in my assumption it is nothing more than a toriod with an AC secondary in an enclosure and is indeed centre tapped as suspected. John kindly supplied the specs and the transformer that will be best suited to the XA-100R will be a 300VA toroidal with 35volt AC secondary. 0V (centre tap) connects to pin one of the XLR socket +V goes to the other two pins. John has recommended you contact www.airlinktransformers.com/ (looks like they make some bloody good transformers!) and you will be asking them for a 35V (Max no load) toroid with 35V AC secondary (centre tapped) He reckons their MOH series (I think he said "MOH") are the best sounding with the XA-100R. This is not the standard MF transformer this is the dog's bollocks and will bring the very best out of the XA-100R. I hope John will become a member of the forum but, if not, you can contact him from his website. I hadn't realised John had gone out on his own, this is very good news for MF owners as he's now offering a custom mod service and if anyone knows MF gear then John does considering he was their Service Manager for many years....... Anyways, back to the PSU...... next step is to contact airlinktransformers and ask them about this transformer.... John says a bog standard 35V 3000VA will do the trick but if you want the amp to really kick arse then I'd go with airlinks audio grade version (which, I believe he said was "MOH") Connecting her up will be simple, 0V goes to pin one on the XLR (you will have to buy a 3 pin XLR plug to mate with the XLR socket on the rear of the amp) and the two +V secondaries go to either of the other two pins on the XLR (doesn't matter which goes where) Piece of cake A big thanks to John Sampson for this invaluable info....... Mike.
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on May 23, 2007 3:07:01 GMT
awesome thankyou. I can locally get a 300va one but it is 40+ volts and not 35 Volts, would it be ok? ;D
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2007 3:31:55 GMT
marcm09 A quick answer , because we are in similar time zone. NO! The rectified DC output would be far too high. The suggested transformer will give about +-50Volts DC. The 40V one will give about +-57Volts DC and may cause problems .Mike may suggest other suitable alternatives IF you can't readily obtain his recommended transformer. SandyK
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 23, 2007 10:19:18 GMT
awesome thankyou. I can locally get a 300va one but it is 40+ volts and not 35 Volts, would it be ok? ;D Just as Sandy says...... it must be rated at 35V (36 or 37V MAX NO LOAD)
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on May 24, 2007 11:21:30 GMT
great finally found a 35v one here in New Zealand ! Also please clarify the following 0V goes to pin one on the XLR - Which pin is pin 1,2 and 3 ? Please
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 24, 2007 11:41:40 GMT
great finally found a 35v one here in New Zealand ! Also please clarify the following 0V goes to pin one on the XLR - Which pin is pin 1,2 and 3 ? Please Confirmed, OV goes to pin one. Usual pin assignments are as follows: Maybe Sandy can confirm this is correct.
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Post by Deleted on May 24, 2007 22:30:25 GMT
Mike My diagrams are identical to yours. However, the centre pin is often used for CT (0 volts) in many other applications. In MF DACs for example ,the centre pin of the 3 pin DIN socket is CT. ( or 0 volts) I left this one to you (deliberately) because I didn't want to cause any damage to the equipment. My suggestion is to take the CT as pin 1, is correct, then open the case and make 100% sure that pin 1 of the socket's wiring goes to a 0 volt or earth connection on the PCB. Also check that the other 2pins connect to either a block type bridge rectifier or discrete diodes. An internal photo of this part of the amplifier would be helpful. Better sure than sorry ! Alex
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 24, 2007 22:32:19 GMT
Agreed but John from MF assures me it is pin one..... pictures would be good tho
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Post by Deleted on May 24, 2007 22:47:26 GMT
Another suggestion. using the connection diagram that Mike supplied, hook up a multimeter/DVM between the metal chassis and pin1 of the XLR socket. Set the meter to read OHMS and see if there is a very low reading present .(10 ohms or less) then read between the metal chassis and the other 2 pins in turn. Ther should be either no reading, or a very high ohms reading. This will only work if the 0Volts (CT) connection is connected to chassis internally. SandyK
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 24, 2007 23:50:34 GMT
OV definitely goes to pin one but let's see a few pics of the inside of the amp before you hook her up to the PSU.... a good reference point for other XA-100R owners who need a PSU and probably the only under the bonnet photos of the XA-100R on the web get snapping
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on May 25, 2007 11:41:28 GMT
It comming, The amps a few days away as I just brought it on trademe.co.nz (have a look) it's simular to ebay. Once I get her I will post some pics for you and as pinky says any other owners. Thanks foe all your help guys its been top class and the most helpfull on the entire NET !!! I love my Xcan that has has the Full Pinkly mods and I'm looking forward to the the upgrade while listing to music from the NAD home theater reciever that I have pulled apart and replace with Panasonic FC's and Mylar caps, it sounds sooo much nicer than standard ans almost unbeliveable for a HF amp ! Any how the X100r sound be a even bigger step up, cool and thanks ;D Pic Comming soon- early nect week when my new baby arrives , it may even have jamicon caps that need replaced, Also I've ordered the 300VA 35+35 tranny its on its way and bout to be built- fun times , Will have to find a spot on the audio rack without the wife noticing, I'm running out of room !!@!!
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 25, 2007 23:58:12 GMT
Wait till you get her up and running before saying that Thanks though, always nice when someone acknowledges things You obvioiusly know what you're doing but please do run it by us before powering her up (pictures) let's make sure that everything is connected as it should be. All the best. Mike.
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on May 29, 2007 21:08:36 GMT
OH YEAH The power supply is built and I have pulled the amp apart to check the 0 volt wire etc, pin one is correct ! I will post some pictures (I'm not sure how to post pics on this forum please advise). I'm also wondering about replacing the capacitors inside there is not alot of them like the xcans though. There are polorised 85c ones - 100uf 50v x 4, 10uf x 25v x 4, 220uf 10v x 2, 1uf 50v x 4. That I could replace with the panasonic FC's. I'm also wondering if I'd need to change the NP's- they are Teapo 105c's 10uf 50V x6 and 100uf x 16v x2 and would it make any difference changing these ? Tonight I will connect the amp up and get her up and running !
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on May 29, 2007 21:34:48 GMT
Sorry typing in a hurry because I'm at work- Also what bypass caps and sizes ?
The amp looks kinda simple for an amp that supposed to sound so nice?
Hope im impressed ? Read some good reviews when they came out. Thanks everyone !
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 29, 2007 21:35:23 GMT
OH YEAH The power supply is built and I have pulled the amp apart to check the 0 volt wire etc, pin one is correct ! Of course it's correct! I wouldn't have said "pin one" unless I was 100% sure Upload your pics to somewhere like photobucket ( photobucket.com/ ) and then simply paste in the IMG code that appears under your photo.... the pic will automatically show up here. And let me guess....... "Jamicon?" rip them out and replace with Panasonics..... in those voltages / values best to go with Panasonic FM... rated at 105C and extremely low ESR a definite improvement will be heard.... no doubt about it at all. I have tons of the 100uF / 50V panasonic FM in stock so if you can't source them (should be easy) let me know. Teapo are equally as bad (sonically / reliability wise) as Jamicon and I wish they'd just named them "cheapo" cause that's what they are..... absolute rubbish, penny a pop......... I'm not being a capacitor snob here I have seen so many Jamicon / teapo bulging in x-can amps it's worrying..... they are absolute rubbish and bottom feeder penny a pop rubbish too! sure to fail sooner rather than later... get them out. I would recommend the 105C capXon for the 10uF positions and would be inclined to replace the 2 x 100uF (which I assume are output / coupling caps) with 2 x 470uF capXon.... the pics will help but so far pretty much the standard MF set up and I can almost guarantee the 16V /100uF non polars will be output caps ;D Excellent, keep us updated Marc
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marcm09
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Post by marcm09 on May 29, 2007 23:24:55 GMT
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