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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2010 13:25:49 GMT
Wish you luck Chris, i emailed them twice regarding a new on -off switch, no reply.
I have an original psu here that works, if you want it let me know.
Mick.
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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2010 23:20:31 GMT
Well, I've already had a very positive response from Peter at Indeed
"Hi,
We are very sorry about that the adapter is defected. Please send back the adapter to the below address. We’ll ship a new one to you after receive it.
We have another suggestion that you just pay US$10- for the shipping cost, we’ll ship a new adapter to you and you no need to return the adapter in order to shorten the shipping time.
Wait for reply, many thanks.
Kind regard
Peter
I reckon that's very reasonable, I'll plump for the $10 dollar method as it'll cost me more to post the faulty one back!
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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2010 23:28:46 GMT
In the meantime..... I've just popped the G2 into the new enclosure, a tad retro, far more pleasing to my eyes, heavier and hopefully will reject some RFI. While I had it apart I also bypassed the input switch, opting for RCA-in only. I never use the 3.5mm input and one less switch in the circuit should be better. Obviously no power at the mo. Mick, many thanks for your offer, that was very kind of you. Anyway, here is the G2-CJ!
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2010 0:09:51 GMT
Oh brown-smelly-stuff! My psu just died A small popping sound, from the psu, followed by eerie silence and not an LED or glowing filament to be seen. I have emailed Indeed, as it's less than 3 months old, and am waiting to see if they will play ball. On the positive side, I have decided on a new casework for it, in fact I've finished it. So while the amp is out of action I can re-house it; piccys to follow... Chris Has the amplifier been modified ? If it hasn't, I would not touch it, in case they request you return it. Consider the small possibility that a fault in the amplifier may have killed the power supply. Alex
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2010 15:12:17 GMT
Alex, That was a good point, thanks for your concern. Mine has had a few mods, I checked it through after the psu died. As far as I could tell all was well so I plugged in a 24v 1A adaptor I have, it powered up fine, though I wouldn't use it in anger as the supplied psu is 2A. Chris
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2010 17:03:30 GMT
Nice job Chris, very retro, certainly different and looks good, well done
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elysion
Been here a while!
Team Anti M$ AND Facebook.
contra torrentem
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Post by elysion on May 27, 2010 17:40:23 GMT
WOW, great case... it certainly has style...
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2010 18:26:15 GMT
Looks very nice indeed. If you want the mess to serve as a screen you will have to connect the metal mesh (sand it so the metal is clear where you connect it) to the Ground (common) of the amp.
SMPS have a way of cuting out by themselves too.
Try to find a good linear regulated power supply for it (better to spend the $ 10 on that I reckon)
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Post by Deleted on May 28, 2010 12:44:58 GMT
Cheers guys!
Frans, good idea, it didn't even cross my mind, thanks.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2010 14:30:42 GMT
^^^^
I've ordered the the new psu from Peter. In the meantime I was searching for a linear 24vdc 2A psu as well. Obviously with a cheap amp I'm not going to spend any great sum on this but can't find anything appropriate.
Any pointers/links out there?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2010 18:49:22 GMT
Hi cj, Have a look at eBay, Stewart at lang_technical, myworld.ebay.co.uk/LANG_TECHNICAL/he may be able to supply ex-stock or modify one of his stock products to give you the linear 24v you need. He has been most helpful and done similar mods for me - nice guy and reasonable prices too - worth an e-mail but he's currently on holiday I think. Hope this helps, Dave.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2010 22:45:49 GMT
Dave,
cheers mate, I'll give him a whirl.
Chris
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2010 21:37:18 GMT
Hi Guys, particularly Mike and Peter, Tonight I reconnected my kit after having my silver bits cryo treated whilst I was on holiday an 'blew' the valve , 6922EH. I think. I powered it up briefly before any leads were connected and the lovely blue light lit up so I powered it down and put all the leads and i/cs back in place and powered it all back up again. BUT no lovely blue light from the Indeed G2. Thinking that maybe I had dislodged a power connection I left the Indeed switched on while I checked the connections. Before this could be done (after a few seconds), there was a loudish 'POP' from both speakers and I just caught sight of the blue light fading on the Indeed. I've put the multimeter on the female jack of the PSU and it measures a steady 24.5v so it looks to me as if the valve has failed. Accordingly I am now in the market for one or more valves. Is there any consensus of opinion as to which valve or valves give the best sound and can anybody sell me any? Any polite responses would be gratefully received - thanks in anticipation, Dave.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2010 21:44:03 GMT
Dave,
I have one of Mikes Russian jobbies in mine. i really like it. Until my psu waved goodbye.
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Post by clausdk on Jun 3, 2010 21:58:20 GMT
I really hope you have not made a "heliharris" on your source, does your source work with other amps ?? Mick did fry both his Ipod and his Cowon on the Indeed G2..
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2010 22:02:08 GMT
Hi Dave,
Even if the valve blew (the filaments that is) the blue and red LED should still be 'on'. This is because the fat resistor is in parallel to the tube and should still 'power' the LED's. Power switch defective ? measure behind the switch or 'bypass' it with a screwdriver to check.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2010 23:08:37 GMT
I really hope you have not made a "heliharris" on your source, does your source work with other amps ?? Mick did fry both his Ipod and his Cowon on the Indeed G2.. Hi Claus and Frans, Claus, I took the G2 out of the stream (was NAD585 CDP into Beresford 7520 DAC into G2 into Cyrus power amp) and everything played fine so I susect the problem is with the G2. Frans, thanks for your technical insight, I never considered the power switch but I understand you more knowledgeable guys consider it to be a low quality item so it is an obvious suspect (with the benefit of hindsight ). I'm not sure how to use a screw driver to bypass the switch but I'll have a closer look tomorrow - I need my beauty sleep . Next problem will be replacing it if it is faulty as I'm somewhat challenged in such matters. Any advice on that aspect would be appreciated, such as details of an easy replacement power switch. The next village has a TV repair man who has done a couple of soldering jobs for me in the past so I might let him do it for me. Thanks again guys, Dave.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2010 5:22:40 GMT
Hi Dave,
Do you see the solderjoints below the power switch ? There are 3. just 'connect' the 2 ones closest to the power socket. You can do this by pressing the metal tip of a small screwdriver between them or solder a blob between these 2 points. Pressing a small dab of aluminum household foil between the 2 pins (only these 2) will work too.
If the LED's light up again have the switch replaced.
succes.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2010 8:18:11 GMT
Hi Frans, Thanks for you guide - I did what you suggested, with mixed results. Have you heard the rhyme: - "Live wires, Boy with pliers, Blue flashes, Boy ashes"? Being an idle numptie I applied the screw driver with the bottom perspex sheet in place (not a lot of room) and got some flashing. On examination I can see that I have managed to create a 'short' between the two solder points involved and the PCB track that runs nearest to the outer edge of PCB. . Result: - I think I may have been lucky but you may know differently . With the switch pushed towards the input RCAs the blue light is as bright as ever but with the switch pushed towards the output RCAs the blue light drops to about half brightness and very slowly fades to zero, which is what it did when it was working correctly. I suppose the acid test is to put it back into the system and see if I get some nice soundsout of it but I am reluctant to do this (in case of 'heliharrising' something) until you have given me your opinion AND can you explain why shorting out those two solder blobs should resurrect a defective switch. Sorry to trouble you and thanks for any further response. BTW if anyone else reads this I am still in the market for one or more valves (different from the current 6922EH) to try the effects of valve rolling - anybody got any to sell? Dave.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2010 9:38:55 GMT
The soldering joint of the switch might be bad. This explains it. When you applied pressure with the screwdriver the solder came in contact with the soldering pads again making it work as it is supposed to do . The switch itself (in the G2) is NOT of poor quality (the other versions do have crappy switches)
Solution: solder the switch on properly by holding a soldering iron tip (10 - 40Watts) against the pads for a few seconds and let/watch the solder 'flow'. Do not hold the soldering iron on there for more then 5 seconds.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2010 9:57:07 GMT
Thanks Frans, you're a real gent!! . I'll get busy with the soldering iron a little later and report back. Cheers, Dave.
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Post by resetter on Jun 4, 2010 15:04:59 GMT
Righto, did some soldering work on this little puppy! replaced the old mosfets with IRL530`s and replaced the caps with, big ass 2200uF Nichicon fine gold caps, and its opend up a lot more, the bass is more present and controlled and more detailed, the highs are more sparkly and have better placement.
Overall its more spaced out now, i like it, just turned it on so its still burning in the new components, all i need a replacement for the 6800uf cap @ 35volts
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2010 20:47:45 GMT
Thanks Frans, you're a real gent!! . I'll get busy with the soldering iron a little later and report back. Cheers, Dave. Hi Frans, I never cease to be amazed at your genius/psychic ability to long distance diagnose audio circuit problems. I applied a 30W soldering iron as instructed and noticed the solder blobs melt and re-solidify. Close scrutiny to the circuit track near the edge confirmed slight damage to the board but ony a covering of soot on the track, which I wiped off. I'm currently listening to my set up with a fully functioning G2 in the signal path and I'm very much enjoying what I hear, so many many thanks for your generously shared expertise - it's very much appreciated Cheers, Dave.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2010 11:35:28 GMT
Hi Guys, Nothing major to report but I throw the following into the 'pool' in case it interests any one. Most likely candidates for interest are perhaps Frans and Rob (Puffin). This morning I fed the output from my Techy TT directly into my G2 (supplied by Rob's tweaked linear 24v PSU), from there into a Cyrus pre and on to a Cyrus power and into the speakers. The TT did not have the phono earth lead earthed (nothing obvious to earth it to ). To get a listenable volume out of the speakers the volume knobs on both G2 and pre had to be turned up to around 2 o'clock. I was only able to listen to a couple of tracks so maybe the system was not up to optimum temperature but I did like the sound that I got (male and female vocal duets). Everything seemed to be a little clearer, more realistic, more of a feel of being there. One thing I did notice though was that when I lifted the stylus off the track (with everything else powered up) there was a very definite roaring sound from the speakers. Any polite comments would be welcome . Dave.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2010 11:58:18 GMT
I wouldn't have thought to even try that, though now that you have and having liked the effect, why not put the G2 between the pre and power? Be VERY careful with volume settings though, they will need to be much lower. That should solve any grounding issues, allow the the TT signal through the phono stage before the G2 and give a global effect for all signal sources.
Just a thought..
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